Avalanche in Huntington Ravine: 3 hurt (Updated Subject line)

[skiguy]

http://www.conwaydailysun.com/index.php/newsx/local-news/94873-avalanche-012213

 

[hikerbrian]

nartreb and Doug, thanks for your insightful commentary and analysis. Expected timelines and climbing difficulty provide a much more accurate frame for this discussion.

As has been mentioned several times, I believe the presence of the film crew and related expectations caused the group to take unnecessary risks. This actually causes me to reconsider other climbing films I have seen - adversity makes for a much more interesting film than unobstructed success. This sentiment was clearly expressed by one of the crew prior to the climb. I can imagine that as darkness was falling, temperatures dropping, snow continuing, climb taking much longer than expected, etc., that the people in charge of making this film were psyched - they wanted to ride right on the knife's edge of challenge and disaster.

At least a few members of this group are much more experienced climbers than me, so I'll defer to the analysis of the MW climbing rangers. But there is no question, these people were EXTREMELY lucky.

Edited to add: I respect and appreciate the comments that Thom Pollard makes in the Conway Daily Sun article linked above.

 

[DougPaul]

As has been mentioned several times, I believe the presence of the film crew and related expectations caused the group to take unnecessary risks. This actually causes me to reconsider other climbing films I have seen - adversity makes for a much more interesting film than unobstructed success. This sentiment was clearly expressed by one of the crew prior to the climb. I can imagine that as darkness was falling, temperatures dropping, snow continuing, climb taking much longer than expected, etc., that the people in charge of making this film were psyched - they wanted to ride right on the knife's edge of challenge and disaster.

IMO, there is little doubt that the presence of a film crew gave them additional incentive to climb that day. But it is bigger than that--they had gone through a lot of effort to collect a large team and schedule linked events (eg the stay at the summit). And it was supporting a cause. There are also social factors such as no one wants to be the first to suggest that they turn back. (There is a lot of discussion of such factors in the ski avalanche accident literature.)

As for the desire to climb on the edge, I'm not so sure. They clearly knew of the hazard as they tried to avoid the freshly deposited snow and the lower teams tried to stay out of the potential avalanche path. It might make a better film (particularly for non-climbers), but they were risking their lives and would be open to criticism particularly for taking novices up in such conditions. People like to succeed at difficult tasks (ie achieve something), but even if they succeed without incident may decide that they had taken foolish risks (and should be more careful in the future).

Their initial plans had been to climb Odell Gully but they changed to Central due to the avalanche risk forecast. (Odell has a reputation for avalanches.)

At least a few members of this group are much more experienced climbers than me, so I'll defer to the analysis of the MW climbing rangers. But there is no question, these people were EXTREMELY lucky.

The MW climbing ranger report looks well written to me. Luck--both good and bad--is a factor in many accidents.

Doug

 

[skiguy]

IMO, there is little doubt that the presence of a film crew gave them additional incentive to climb that day. But it is bigger than that--they had gone through a lot of effort to collect a large team and schedule linked events (eg the stay at the summit). And it was supporting a cause. There are also social factors such as no one wants to be the first to suggest that they turn back. (There is a lot of discussion of such factors in the ski avalanche accident literature.)

Doug

"We are well aware that people are going to have issues with how that day went down," Pollard said. Both he and Politz have climbed in major ranges around the world, and in retrospect they recognize missteps. "We were so focused," he said, on what was directly in front of the team, that they missed big picture questions.
Now, Pollard said, the movie that was originally going to be about Zeier's ascent will take a hard look at the team's decisions. "We're going to answer these questions," he said, and interview people involved in the rescue. "If they want to say something negative it won't be edited out."

I am glad that these folks are OK. I also admire Mr. Pollard for saying the above. IMO it takes a humble and brave person to do so. Hopefully we will see success in the future for the causes that were originally intended.

 

[Sunshine Chris]

Wow - that is a REALLY interesting summary and analysis. Thanks for posting. I learned quite a bit by reading that.

me too thanks for the link- http://www.mountwashingtonavalanchec...central-gully/

 

[Raven]

And here it is.....came to my inbox this morning.

"Dear Scott,

Mount Washington Observatory invites you to join us on Thursday, April 11 in downtown Boston for an inspirational evening with veteran Reconnaissance Marine Keith Zeier.

Hear the incredible story of Zeier’s survival from a deadly IED explosion in Iraq, and the slow process of healing that inspired him to help fellow wounded veterans through the Ascents of Honor project.

See exclusive images and video from the January 2013 Ascents of Honor Mount Washington summit attempt, and be inspired by the infallible determination of an American soldier who refuses to let tragedy end his mission to help fellow veterans.

When:
Thursday, April 11, 2013
6:00 - 8:30pm
Where:
The Suites at WilmerHale
60 State Street, Boston, MA 02109"