Baxter S.P. Logistics Help Needed

[eddie]

We are planning for a trip during the last week of June to get No. Brother and Katahdin Baxter and Hamlin to complete our NE111 list. There will be two others completing the NE67. I am looking for some guidance regarding campgrounds and permitting.

We plan to go to BSP mid-week to avoid the weekend crowds. We would also like to stay at Chimney Pond campground the night before we climb Katahdin to get both peaks. Does it make sense to camp the first night at Roaring Brook, drive to the Marston traihead the next day to hike the Brothers, then return to Roaring Brook and backpack into Chimney campground? (It looks like we'll have to leave for Chimney Pond by 5:00pm) Should we make three days worth of reservations to allow for a bad weather day, then pick the best day to summit Katahdin? How big are the lean-tos or is the bunkhouse a better choice? Is bringing in more than one car a problem? Also, do you know if will I have to get each day's permit on the day four months in advance for reservations?

Any other suggestions while we are up there? I really appreciate the feedback I get on this website.

 

[Stan]

I see from your "location" you're from the Boston area

Still, it can be a long way to Baxter Park ... we never do it without stopping for brunch/lunch along the way, Freeport and LL Bean (open 24/7 4 buildings), the NH state liquor store etc. ... and stay in Millinocket the night before.

Millinocket is a depressed area these days but the people there are the salt of the earth and master many seasonal trades and activities to get by. The River Riders Restaurant has "fine cuisine" but you'll also find good home cooked comfort food downtown, which you can't miss. Kind of compares favorably to someplace like, say, Pittsburg.

A few notes of advice. Even in late June, depending on the snowfall the previous winter and spring melt (in Baxter you are further north than anything in New Hampshire and Minnesota for that matter), a few trails may still be closed. There is a lot to see and do, if you like wildness, so be flexible and don't try to accomplish the maximum in the minimum time... you'll be shortchanging your effort to get there.

Chimney Pond is a terrific base camp for Katahdin and if you stay there two nights you'll have the second day as a bad weather option ... if it clears. Do the Knife Edge if you have the opportunity. There are plenty of reports and photos on Views. Roaring Brook is not necessary as a base camp for Chimney Pond which isn't very far up the trail; it is good if you are planning a long dayhike of Katahdin so you might consider that as part of a third foul weather option.

As for the Brothers, you'll find camping reservations easier to get than reservations for Roaring Brook or Chimney Pond so I would work around whatever you arrange for your Katahdin hike. Make it two nights and plan the entire 12+ mile trek to include Fort and Coe. So there you have 5 nights but in my experience, Marston was once closed a week or so after Katahdin trails opened (maybe as much for the mud as snow) so you might consider the Brothers after Katahdin.

Most of the leantos are maximum four people but check the Baxter Park website for capacities. The capacity of the bunkhouse at Chimney Pond is 12 but I've never been there when it was full, even on a labor Day weekend with bad weather erroneously forecast ... as the Warden said when three of us were the only ones there even though others had booked it full, "It's no impact camping, you pay your fee and don't show up."

I'd predict, depending on the size of your group, you'll have no problem getting what you want at the 4 month reservation period. If you don't, keep in mind that they hold 20% of the spaces available for Maine residents until two weeks before the date so you may be able to find additional space at the last minute. Some die hard traditionalists go up and stand in the cold on "opening day ", the day after Martin Luther King Day, to get first choice but they limit the number of spaces booked that day to 20% of capacity (e.g. 3 of the bunks in Chimney Pond bunkhouse). A lot of people can't stand the cold ... around here we refer to them as Steeler fans.

Hey! Enjoy Baxter ... and if the Patriots somehow get screwed out of Dallas, I'll root for ... the Steelers.

http://www.baxterstateparkauthority.com/

P.S. You should have little problem with the second car; it'll need to pay a separate fee and be subject to the same line and capacity as everyone else but you first car is in by virtue of the reservations. Not a bad idea to make separate reservations to include that second car if possible.

 

[MikePS]

Great advice from Stan, I second the night in Millinocket on the way in.I also second the idea of reservations with each car. A couple of quick points. It is about an hour car ride from Roaring Brook to Marston trailhead, add in your hike, it would be quite ambitious to do that hike,drive back and then hike to Chimney that night.Consider camping at Neswuedehunk as well. definately try to grab two nights at Chimney, it is destination in itself and two nights gives you a better shot at the Knife. There has been a concerted effort over the past few years to replace leantos with bigger Adriondack style models, easily fit four with gear. It is worth a call to headqtrs- they can not do phone resv, but are very helpful and can give you the lowdown on which leantos are the newer, larger ones, especially at Chimney. BTW, late June is BIG BUG season, pack your deet.(Also more rain) On the other hand the water levels, waterfalls etc are up and very pretty. I know there is disagreement, but I have been going up at least once year for twenty-five plus years, it is a special place, enjoy, good luck and have fun.

 

[Daniel Eagan]

We did a similar trip to your plans with three people and two cars. Stayed at Roaring Brook four nights. Spent the first night in Millinocket, shopped, drove in to Roaring Brook, set up camp, did that quick Traveler thing the first day. Drove to North Brother the second day. Third day was a total washout with rain. Fourth day weather was great, got in Pamola, Baxter, and Hamlin. Packed up leisurely the last day.

Our schedule had a lot of padding, but we wanted to enjoy the park. Got to swim in Togue Pond frequently, for example. We also could wait for a great day for Baxter. Chimney Pond is a beautiful site, but I think staying in Roaring Brook was just as convenient in terms of getting both the Knife Edge and Hamlin in a day. It's a long drive from Roaring Brook to Marston trailhead to North Brother.

We had tents, so can't advise re: lean-tos vs. bunks. Roaring Brook offers both. But June will be a great time for bugs.

My biggest piece of advice: when you're on North Brother, try to grab Fort as well. You will be so close.

 

[peakbagger]

A few comments on logisitics. When you look at a map of the roads and distances in the park plan on 10 MPH, if you are lucky and the road graders have been out, you may be able to get up to 20 MPH. Therefore driving anywhere takes a long time. I have driven both a honda civic and a ponitac fiero (both low clearance vehicles) in the park many times but plan on getting an alignment when you get home as there are rocks sticking up in the road bed and plenty of chuckholes.

If you have to go in June, you have a chance to keep out the bugs in the bunkhouses but no hope in the leantos. I would consider a tent preferable to a lean to during that time of the year. Some folks try to set up netting across the face of the lean to which may help but dealing with the potential black fly swarms will take a lot of effort. The bunkhouses also have wood stoves which are handy on occasion to take the dampness out. I generally plan on at least 1 day of rain in three for that area of maine in early summer. There are some nice rainy weather day hikes so you should have a few picked out.

Just for the chuckles its worth trying to get reservations in one of the cabins at Daicey or Kidney Pond, its highly unlikely but give it a try. Also consider stopping at the park headquarters when you drive into town and see if there are any last minute openings, last year there were cabins availlable at Daciey Pond on labor day week due to last minute cancelations.

There is a major difference between the old style leantos and the new ones, make sure you call if you are thinking of of having 4 people in one. Many of the old ones are just wide enough for 4 thermarests placed side by side and have very low roofs. The new lean tos are much larger. Whe making reservations most folks book the minimum number of people per site and then add folks up to the maximum at a later date. Once you go over the maximum per site, there is no real option for the extra person unless they can reserve another site. Unlike many other areas there is no option to fit in that extra person.

Invest in a good grade of cooler that should be left in a locked vehicle. The critters are quite bold at most of the campgrounds with Abol and Katahdin stream being the worst. The racoons at Katahdin Stream have gone through generations of picnic coolers and know all the tricks. There are no nearby sources for resupply near the park gate that would require less than 3 hours round trip from most of the campsites in the park so plan on carrying what you need for the trip unless you need a break.

The park has no tested water sources, so you are either treating the local water or bringing it with you. If you plan on treating the local water, a bulk carrying container is real handy. I usually pick up some gallon jugs of water at the Shaws Grocery store in Millinocket.

 

[eddie]

I appreciate all of the recommendations.

Another question: being average speed hikers, how long a day could we expect doing the Pamola-Baxter-Hamlin loop from both Chimney or Roaring Brook (not including summit lounging time)?

Thanks again.

 

[peakbagger]

A swag is 8 hours from Chimney Pond via Hamlin Ridge Trail across knife edge and down Dudley. The biggest challenge can be water on a hot day, there is really only one reliable water source at Saddle spring and an intermittent one coming down Hamlin. Add on 2 hours from Roaring Brook and take Helon Taylor instead of Dudley.

For what its worth, if you have the time, do Hamlin as seperate hike one day and then do Katahdin via the Cathedral trail, then down knifes edge and dudley from Chimney (6 to 7 hours). Hamllin can be done in marginal conditions while the knifes edge should only be done in good conditions. By having two seperate hikes planned you can swap the days around.

 

[Daniel Eagan]

I'm sure I'm slower than you. It took us a little over twelve hours to circuit from Roaring Brook via Helon Taylor, Knife's Edge, Baxter, Hamlin, and down via Chimney Pond.

We probably spent a half-hour atop Pamola, a little over an hour on Baxter, about forty minutes on Hamlin, and about forty minutes at Chimney Pond. (it was a beautiful day.)

 

[peakbagger]

My timing didnt include any major breaks, On a good day in a group, 12 hours with breaks is reasonable from Roaring brook. I tend to be on the slow but steady side with my hiking pace, but dont take long breaks when I am solo.

 

[Daniel Eagan]

My timing didnt include any major breaks,

Sorry, I wasn't comparing my pace to yours, but to Eddie's. I don't want to appear to be correcting or contradicting you.

On the other hand, I know for a fact that I'm slower than Mr. Ed, because he's passed me on the trails.

 

[eddie]

Dan, I passed you only because I had to catch Willie who had the car keys and he was on a mission to get to the LP Pub & Brewery!

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Reviving this thread as it seems appropriate...

For the sake of this specific question, my goal is to get the final 6 peaks on the NEHH list.
I plan to do Brothers, Fort and Coe on the first nice day from Marston.
I plan to do the Katahdin Peaks on the second nice day from Roaring Brook.
I plan to camp/sleep only in the cabins.

Is there any reason to give Daicey Pond or Kidney Pond preference? Looks like Kidney has fewer fire rings.
Is there any reason to give a specific cabin or cabins preference? Any to avoid (I already know to avoid Oji for example)

Thanks,
Tim

 

[peakbagger]

Kidney Pond is marginally closer than Daicey to the Marston Trailhead. Daicey has better views of the mountain and bit more privacy beween the cabins but depending on which cabin you get, hauling gear back and forth is longer walk through the woods especially in the dark if you are leaving early. Many of the cabins at Kidney appear to be out in the open with the parking close by.

Book the bunkhouse at Roaring Brook for day two.

Be prepared to get your butt kicked on the second day as the Brothers Fort Coe loop is a long day followed by a 1hour plus drive over to Roaring Brook. Sure people do it but its lot better with a extra day so you have some options to pick the best day for Katahdin Hamlin. If you have a nice weather, Doubletop is a great rest day hike (from the north)

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Book the bunkhouse at Roaring Brook for day two.

Why? Or why not? I'm not interested in moving my "basecamp" for one evening. I'm not against a easy/down day in the middle. I'm thinking of 3-5 days total, giving me time to kayak or explorer shorter, casual hikes. I have very little camping gear, which is why I am opting to stay in the cabins.

Tim

 

[MichaelJ]

Kidney is much more open, Daicey more secluded and much smaller. Neither allow swimming, both have put-in areas as well as kayak & canoe rentals ($1). At Daicey you'll be using a cart (they have them) to get your gear to the cabin. While both mention "propane lights" in the cabins, they are weak and you should bring your own light source(es). Of course bring in all your own potable water, too. Perhaps even bring a roll of window screen.

 

[Lost Dad]

I stayed @ Daicey before, very happy with the cabins. They didn't offer much but they did have a roof, screens and it was nice to have a table and the propane lights. I remembered swimming there so I just took a look @ the BSP website and both Kidney & Daicey list swimming as an activity. After a good hike in midsummer, the pond felt pretty nice. In Daicey, I would stay away from cabin 6 (Blue Lodge) as it is not very private.

 

[RoySwkr]

I plan to do the Katahdin Peaks on the second nice day from Roaring Brook.
I plan to camp/sleep only in the cabins.

Note that staying elsewhere you are subject to the same parking limits as the rest of the world at Roaring Brook which in prime time means a very early start to drive over, you might prefer to start at one of the western trailheads instead. If it's the knife edge you're after, you can do it out and back from Baxter Peak and spend your day hiking not driving.

And while you probably share a bunkhouse with others it doesn't require any camping gear except for sleeping bag/pad.

 

[MichaelJ]

There's actually no swimming allowed at Daicey or Kidney. I don't know why they list it as an activity. Perhaps they're referring to the river nearby? I only swim at Togue Pond Beach (just outside the gate). Daicey and Kidney both have an inordinate number of leaches. Togue doesn't have any.

I believe Steve determined canonically (by asking the Park) last year that if you have a reservation anywhere in the park, you can park at even the reservation-only parking lots (Abol, Katahdin Stream, Roaring Brook) without a day-use-parking reservation. However, you still want to get there early, and it's almost an hour drive from Daicey to Roaring Brook.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

I have read the same thing about parking. I'm not against getting up early and driving, I don't own a sleeping bag (gasp!) and I suspect I will sleep better in the cabin anyway. Anyone ever catch any fish in either pond? Probably need a license, even if I am strictly catch-and-release. I do have a Coleman fuel lantern.

I do want the Knife Edge, and I do want to see the Great Basin side. My only "gotcha" is that I'd prefer (not required) to leave Baxter Peak for last, which means going down the Knife Edge.

Tim

 

[TJ aka Teej]

Grab a lean-to at Roaring Brook and all you need is a headlamp, bag, pad, stove, pot and fuel. That puts you right at the trailhead with a parking spot. I'll lend you a stove, pot, and fuel can if you don't have those. Book at least three nights, weekdays if you can. You'll want to hit the Katahdin trails at the crack of dawn, before they open the gates for the vans full of day hikers. Talk with Rangers, the BSP staff really know the mountain. Try to fit in Doubletop, as an up and down from the north side. South Turner is a fine leg stretcher out of RB, with an awesome view of Katahdin.