Coleman peak 1 stove

[MadRiver]

A few years ago I found an old Coleman Peak 1 in the garage. We bought the house from my wife’s grandparents, so we inherited a lot of cool stuff. Anyway, off and on I would try the pump to see if I could pressurize the tank, but to no avail. Yesterday I removed the locking ring and pulled out the pump assembly. Inside the shaft of the pump is a long pointed rod with threads at the end. I looked down the shaft that goes to the tank and there is a large screw at the end that the threaded rod threads into. There is a large cutout across the screw where a flathead screwdriver would fit. I tried several times to twist the screw, but it seems to be frozen. I’ve tried to loosen it with liquid wrench or WD-40, yet it still will not budge. Is this screw supposed to move up and down the shaft to pressurize the pump? In the directions on the box (yet, still have the original box) it mentions keeping the leather washer well lubricated. The only washer I see on the pump assembly is rubber, so I am thinking that the screw that is frozen is the leather washer. Am I correct in thinking that I need to dislodge this screw somehow? Those of you who have this stove if you remove the pump assembly form the stove can you see into the tank or is there a “screw” at the end preventing you from seeing into the tank?

 

[Paradox]

I had one many years ago (30?) which I no longer have. The leather washer you mention is supposed to be cup shaped, which can seal against the side of the pump cylindar when pushing in on the rod and then allow air to leak past it when you pulled it out. The screw you mention probably held the leather cup onto the end of the rod.

Removing a screw from the end of a rod can often be done by holding the end of the rod (about a 1/4" from the screw) in a butane lighter flame for a few seconds to expand the metal of the female threads. Then quickly loosen the screw before it heats up or the rod cools. Good luck.

 

[jfb]

I don't think you need to remove that screw. Just replace the rubber seal at the end of the pump with a new one (if it is cracked or very soft) available at Campmor or REI. I think the lower end of the tube that holds the pump shaft contains a check valve.

The Coleman web site has manuals for backpacking stoves that show all parts.

 

[MadRiver]

I don't think you need to remove that screw. Just replace the rubber seal at the end of the pump with a new one (if it is cracked or very soft) available at Campmor or REI. I think the lower end of the tube that holds the pump shaft contains a check valve.

The rubber seal is very soft so I might try that first before using a blow torch. Thanks.

 

[Chip]

I'm not sure if you've solved the problem already, but there are replacement pump units for these coleman stoves. I think the burner and the pump are pretty generic across the coleman line.

Edit: Which is pretty much what jfb said.

 

[Paradox]

The rubber seal is very soft so I might try that first before using a blow torch. Thanks.

You're probably joking here, but you want a butane cigarette lighter it is not a very hot flame.

 

[MadRiver]

You're probably joking here.

Yep! I called "Roger" the Coleman guru guy and he said to leave the screw alone, it belongs there. He gave me some helpful hits, which I will try when I get home. If all else fails, I can ship it to them and they will fix it for $25.00, which is cheaper than getting a new stove. I will eventually buy the Svea 123R because it is a damn pretty stove, and a workhorse from what I have read.

 

[Chip]

A Friendly Warning: The (Optimus) Svea 123R has the same adjustment key/tool as the 8R's did. You can see it in the Campmor ad (which also states "No priming required for cold weather." ). More than one of us has permanent key-tool shaped scars on our thumb and index fingers from forgetting to remove the key while the stove is on, only to be reminded by grabbing the now red-hot metal to turn the stove off.

Other than that they are highly functional pieces of art. I wonder if they still come in the metal can ?

 

[DougPaul]

A Friendly Warning: The (Optimus) Svea 123R has the same adjustment key/tool as the 8R's did.

Not all 8Rs. Mine (purchased in 1971 or 1972) has a plastic knob on a metal shaft. No risk of burning one's fingers.

IIRC, the Svea 123 available at the same time had a metal key.

Doug

 

[Quietman]

Here is a link to Coleman camping stove parts diagrams which I have found useful when repairing my stoves.

Coleman Stoves Parts Diagrams

 

[Chip]

Not all 8Rs. Mine (purchased in 1971 or 1972) has a plastic knob on a metal shaft.

Doug

Clunky, odd looking things, those plastic knobs. I think that was the "Hunter" model. I prefer my scars.

My original 8R was purchased in 1973 for about $12 at the Ardsley, NY EMS.

 

[sardog1]

I will eventually buy the Svea 123R because it is a damn pretty stove, and a workhorse from what I have read.

Apart from its simple Nordic beauty and its utter reliability, my SVEA 123 has one other chief virtue: It has never tried to kill me, unlike a certain
"old ------- ---- -."

Yeah, I know, lots of you have a ------- ---- - that you love and trust. And I'm pretty sure the defect was cured by the manufacturer years ago. But the one I have is permanently imprisoned, so that I can keep an eye on it eternally.

 

[DougPaul]

Clunky, odd looking things, those plastic knobs. I think that was the "Hunter" model. I prefer my scars.

Suit yourself--it works fine for me.

My original 8R was purchased in 1973 for about $12 at the Ardsley, NY EMS.

Mine was probably purchased at the Commwealth Ave (Boston) EMS store. The 72/73 catalog gives a price of $11.95. No model name given, but the picture includes the plastic knob.

Doug

 

[teejay]

Coleman stove

MadRiver,

First, don't use an open flame near the open tank. Please. There could be some old fuel in there and, well, you never know. It could be ugly.

From what you describe, I don't think you have a Peak 1 stove. Does the tank have a knurled cap at one end that can be unscrewed for filling, and is the pump and the main valve assembly (plastic knob) separate at the other end? Also, does the valve assembly have a long tube coming out of it at a right angle to the tank and is there a little lever above the valve that turns? Also, does the pump have a small hole in the knob? If so, this is the design that Coleman has used for decades for its camping stoves but not for the Peak 1.

The tank for the Peak 1 looks just like an aluminum or stainless steel water bottle. It is one piece only. The pump knob of the Peak 1 doesn't have a hole in it. The entire pump assembly of the Peak 1 threads into the tank. It is plastic with a couple of thin tubes coming out of it.

Remove the pointed rod from the pump shaft. The part of the rod that is inside the pump shaft is square, isn't it? This is the tank valve shaft. What has happened is that someone simply unscrewed the tank valve from the tank and when you pulled the pump assembly from the tank, the valve shaft came out with it.

Don't try to remove the screw from the tank. It is the valve seat. After you have removed the pointed rod from the pump shaft, screw it back into the valve seat at the bottom of the pump well. Make sure that you center it in the bore of the pump and it threads in easily. Finger tighten it.

If you don't see a leather washer on yours, it's missing. You might as well buy a new pump assembly which includes the pump shaft with everything put together. The newer replacements now come with a rubber washer, I think. They're less than $10 most places. A good hardware, outdoor store or, dare I say, W?l*M@%t will have it.

Just follow the directions and you should be good to go. If the tank still won't hold pressure, it could be rusted out, the valve is leaking, or the filler cap seal is leaking. If the tank does hold pressure, follow the directions for lighting the stove. If it works, fine. If not, let me know. Good luck!!

teejay

 

[MadRiver]

This is the stove, although mine is more brownish and older.
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/images/products/peak1/3024-722_500.jpg

I was able to pressurize the tank by playing with the pump. Unfortunately, when I replace the locking clip it seems to misalign the shaft and doesn’t pump as well, so I took the clip off. For now I have to hold the pump lid from coming off when I pump up the tank. I will replace the pump. Roger from Coleman said I can purchase the leather washer from them.

Once I pressurized the tank I followed the steps for lighting but nothing happened. I could smell the fumes, yet no flame. I will try again tonight. If all else fails I will send it off to Roger to look it over. It is a nice little stove and deserves a second chance to be useful.

 

[sardog1]

From what you describe, I don't think you have a Peak 1 stove. Does the tank have a knurled cap at one end that can be unscrewed for filling, and is the pump and the main valve assembly (plastic knob) separate at the other end? Also, does the valve assembly have a long tube coming out of it at a right angle to the tank and is there a little lever above the valve that turns? Also, does the pump have a small hole in the knob? If so, this is the design that Coleman has used for decades for its camping stoves but not for the Peak 1.

The tank for the Peak 1 looks just like an aluminum or stainless steel water bottle. It is one piece only. The pump knob of the Peak 1 doesn't have a hole in it. The entire pump assembly of the Peak 1 threads into the tank. It is plastic with a couple of thin tubes coming out of it.

Actually, older models bearing the "Peak 1" name had all of the features disclaimed above (as did some of their successors using different names but the same design.)

Here's the homicidal maniac (now confined to a more secure arrangement than Hannibal Lecter):

Valve view

Pump view


Here's a successor:

 

[MadRiver]

That’s my stove!! Are you suggesting that I might be in danger?? Will it kill me in my sleep?? Should I put it back into the box and lock it in the metal cabinet in the garage never to be seen again??

 

[Quietman]

Here is a part of a previous post on the subject regarding my older version of the Peak1


10-90 seconds of flare-up from the Peak 1 just adds to the fun of camping with the kids. Such as, "Hey Dad, the branches in the tree above your head are on fire", or "Hey Mom, Dad set the picnic table on fire again", and the famous "Hey Dad, how long till you can get close enough to turn it off!"

Actually, most of the time it works just fine. Just don't use near a tent, or any wooden structure.

 

[Chip]

Once I pressurized the tank I followed the steps for lighting but nothing happened. I could smell the fumes, yet no flame.

Send it to Roger. They are nice back-up stoves, but it sounds like yours has more than one issue.

 

[sardog1]

That’s my stove!! Are you suggesting that I might be in danger?? Will it kill me in my sleep?? Should I put it back into the box and lock it in the metal cabinet in the garage never to be seen again??

1. Maybe.
2. Not if you don't leave it lit while you sleep (but possibly while you're lighting it . . . )
3. As the Zen Stove Master says, "Another drawback with the popular Coleman single unit stoves is that if overfilled, they may leak liquid fuel from the top of the stove and cause a huge fireball. Coleman stoves are probably the stove most likely to be thrown into a lake." I'm not sure whether it's overfilling at fault, and I lack sufficient skin in the game to risk a test. (Rather keep all the skin I've got at the moment . . . )