Huntington South Gully 5.5.07

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Mad Townie

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Well, SherpaK has already posted the aquatic and social parts of the weekend here, so I might as well add a bit from the climbers' perspective.

The day was gorgeous, so it was a perfect time to do a little climbing. A fairly large group headed over to Pinkham Notch, hung out in the gear room for awhile, then finally headed up the trail. Lots of company from the many skiers & boarders heading up to Tuckerman Ravine, and from what we saw later they were rewarded for their efforts.

After stopping briefly to see the Harvard Cabin we headed up into the Ravine, ascending to some rocks below Central Gully and O'Dell's to take a break and gear up. cbcbd was looking for rope-mates, so 7summits took the middle and I grabbed my usual spot at the back end. We traversed over to the bottom of South Gully, making sure to take lots of pictures as we went. The rest of the group climbed Central, but I'll let them tell their own story, which was somewhat more "interesting" than ours.

We zigged and zagged our way up the lower parts of the gully. The snow was good and firm, perfect for kicking steps. With a little force my mountaineering axe would sink to the head, giving me confidence in the snow's ability to hold it (and me :eek: ) if necessary. It wasn't necessary.

We passed a really cool looking ice hole near one of the rock walls on climber's left; it was about 2 feet wide at the top and appeared bottomless. The climbing got a little steeper for a bit, and we switched from using the points of the axes to using the picks. Not hard, but lots of fun. Throughout the climb cbcbd did an excellent job of leading and kicking great steps, and 7summits also demonstrated excellent and very safe technique. What a pleasure to climb with those two!

At one point we took a break just under a big boulder, and cbcbd used the time to measure the slope with his inclinometer. I don't remember what it was, but I do know that he has a very conservative approach to the measurement. We could see a guy coming up solo behind us, but he'd stop and wait every once in awhile so we figured he didn't want to pass. Sure enough, after we topped out we thanked him for his patience and he said he was happy to have us ahead of him making great footholds.

After topping out into the breeze (it was pretty calm along most of the route) we tried to figure out whether the Central Gully teams had beaten us to the top. We headed over there, seeing only one set of tracks going down the Alpine Gardens toward Lion's Head. They turned out to belong to Swampy, who had soloed Central in a flash and then headed down.

Just after we arrived at the top of their route the Central climbers started to appear, with stories! (I'll let them tell them.) We took a break, then headed down toward Lion's Head, stopping briefly to watch the skiers in Tuckerman. The Lion's Head winter route (summer is still closed) is miserable, steep and slippery, sloppy snow. We all got down uneventfully and headed back to Barnes for the evening's festivities. Some of us had the good sense to shower at Pinkham, but some of "them" didn't bother. :eek:

Abster had to leave us from Pinkham to head back to VT, but the rest of us were treated to great food and beverages and Giggy's choice of music back at the campground. Sherp made some luscious sirloin tips, and MtnMama had lots of delicious stuff as usual. Have you had your sangria yet????

Photos here.
 
Yep, that pretty much summed it all. That was my first time up South gully and I really liked it - snakes around and gets nice and wide towards the bottom - and it stays pretty steep for most of it.

My biggest highlight was throwing rocks at Giggy - I don't think he was too amused. :D

Good pic of team SG:



Thanks for the pics MT and 7Summits! I usually have my camera... this time I was feeling lazy :)
 
Hi MT, thanks for the great report and pictures. We're a great team. I was feeling very comfortable being roped-in with you 2 great climbers, giving me the confidence to stop and smell the roses (take many many pictures) along the fun climb. We had a great climbing day, warm but not hot, a bit windy at time, most importantly as MT noted the snow condition was prefect for kick steps. Well, I wouldn't know would I, as cbcbd did most of the works, all I did was walk up a steep hill leisurely on good firm steps :p. (I only recalled a few steps were tough to kick in and stay put.)

Great day to be out on the mountain with great climbing partners, team SG rocks!

Here are my pics . Looking forward to more hikes/climbs with you guys.

P/s: Regarding viewing my new website format, I've received feedback that the new configuration does not work well for low res monitor, a way to get around before I have time to change the format is to right click on the thumbnail on the left pane and select "Open in New Window" to open the picture in its own window. Sorry about that. Enjoy!
 
Looks like fun...

I presume that Doug carried the skis for use as deadmen... :)

Doug



Note for the non-climbers: a deadman is a kind of snow anchor.
 
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Wow, that's cool- :cool: . It's not anything I've ever done or seen anyone do outside of probably the RSN channel or in "Touching the Void".
 
Early Bird said:
Wow, that's cool- :cool: . It's not anything I've ever done or seen anyone do outside of probably the RSN channel or in "Touching the Void".
South is a nice gully, but rather easy. I was led up it as a beginner and have led beginners up it.

The climb in "Touching the Void" was a whole different event--far more difficult and far more dangerous. Experts only--a beginner wouldn't have stood a chance.

It sounds like they had fun (on South) and came back safely. Would have liked to gone along myself...

Doug
 
You guys rock!! Outstanding report of what appears a great day. It looks like plenty of snow loss since the last reports, but still lots to play on. Both albums are excellent. The pitch shows fine.

Doug - facial accessory looks :cool: Also, how do you read the inclimeter? The close-up is readable, but I'm not sure how to read the meter.
 
cbcbd said:
My biggest highlight was throwing rocks at Giggy - I don't think he was too amused. :D


I don't recall this :confused: :confused: - though there was so much crap coming down central, I prolly just wrote it off as something else coming down the chute hitting us in the head or back :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
7summits said:
Great day to be out on the mountain with great climbing partners, team SG rocks!
Hui Yeng, thanks for the pics - and sorry for being the idiot that got the camera strap in the frame... I'm usually not that clumsy :rolleyes:

...we should've gone up that ice hole :) next time...

DougPaul said:
I presume that Doug carried the skis for use as deadmen... :)
Actually, I just used the real deadmen I encountered along the route as anchors, Everest-style - poor souls who perished on their way up South Gully

Early Bird said:
Wow, that's cool- :cool: . It's not anything I've ever done or seen anyone do outside of probably the RSN channel or in "Touching the Void".
I sure hope I never have to go through a "Touching the Void" incident :D (unless pending that I make it out alive, can still climb, and can make $$$ off of books and movies)

bubba said:
Doug - facial accessory looks :cool: Also, how do you read the inclimeter? The close-up is readable, but I'm not sure how to read the meter.
I'm rad like that...
The clinometer just shows the degrees of the pitch - in that case it was close to 45. Most inbounds ski areas don't pass 35 degrees.
 
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giggy said:
I don't recall this :confused: :confused: - though there was so much crap coming down central, I prolly just wrote it off as something else coming down the chute hitting us in the head or back :eek: :eek: :eek:
haha, ok. You were topping out... I was standing around the topout and yelled "rock" and threw a few pebbles down at you - my third shot I finally hit your hand. Next time I'll aim for your nuts so you won't forget.
 
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cbcbd said:
haha, ok. You were topping out... I was standing around the topout and yelled "rock" and threw a few pebbles down at you - my third shot I finally hit your hand. Next time I'll aim for your nuts so you won't forget.

Yeah, I remember that. I'm not sure we were in the right frame of mind to appreciate it, but looking back it was kinda funny.
 
cbcbd said:
Actually, I just used the real deadmen I encountered along the route as anchors, Everest-style - poor souls who perished on their way up South Gully
OK if they are still well frozen in... :)

Sorry--I forgot. IIRC, you bring skis along on your climbs so you can outrun the avalanches. more :)

I sure hope I never have to go through a "Touching the Void" incident :D (unless pending that I make it out alive, can still climb, and can make $$$ off of books and movies)
On this climb, your best hope for such an incident might have been to unrope and jump down the bottomless hole... still more :)

Somehow, this seems like a rather chancy method of making one's fortune. And I rather doubt that Simpson got rich off it.

Doug
 
DougPaul said:
On this climb, your best hope for such an incident might have been to unrope and jump down the bottomless hole... still more :)
Somehow, this seems like a rather chancy method of making one's fortune. And I rather doubt that Simpson got rich off it.
Doug

I think that Joe Simpson actually did get fairly rich from Touching the Void, although Simon Yates has had a pretty tough time of it. But, chancy, nevertheless.
 
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