Ice Axe Length

[marty]

Hi all -

My recent internet research has unveiled some debate between longer and shorter lengths for ice axes. Am wondering what length ice axe you would recommend for non-technical (at least hopefully) winter trail hiking. I am 6'1''.

Thanks,
marty

 

[Kevin Rooney]

It all depends upon the length of your arm and the distance to the ground.

Hold the head of the axe loosely in your hand, and let it dangle. The tip should be an 1" or two above the ground.

Like anything, the length is a compromise. When slabbing along a steep slope and using it for a probe, you'll wish for a shorter one. When using it as a walking stick, you'll wish for a longer one ...

 

[ColdRiverRun]

Well Marty, ya gotta keep in mind some men are longer than others.

 

[sapblatt]

Hi all -

My recent internet research has unveiled some debate between longer and shorter lengths for ice axes. Am wondering what length ice axe you would recommend for non-technical (at least hopefully) winter trail hiking. I am 6'1''.

Thanks,
marty

Marty -
I think there is a correlation between Stabilicer/snowshoe size and ice axe length!

 

[sierra]

you should use at least a 70cm, 75cm would be better. Many people make the mistake of using a too short axe for general mountaineering.Most stores seem to stock alot of 60cm axes for general use, I promise you for your hieght that will be useless on anything but steep terrain.

 

[Jasper]

Even Longer?

For the Whites and most of the Cascades, I like an even longer axe: 80 cm for a guy that is 6'-0". I have been told that it is too long but it works well for me. 90% of the time, it is mainly used as a walking stick.

 

[sardog1]

For the Whites and most of the Cascades, I like an even longer axe: 80 cm for a guy that is 6'-0". I have been told that it is too long but it works well for me. 90% of the time, it is mainly used as a walking stick.

Yup, what he said (right down to the particular numbers in this instance.)

YMMV, but I bet you'll regret carrying a shorter axe in relation to your height -- every time you wonder why you're carrying it and not using it.

 

[nartreb]

It depends where and how you use it. I bought an axe that's a little short for my height in an effort to shave ounces, and in New England it just wasn't useful - too short to use as a walking stick, not really designed for vertical ice. But I recently walked up Baldy Bowl with it and it was perfect for 45-degree snow. With that kind of slope, any longer would have been too long.

You also don't want an axe that's so long or so short that you can't easily do a proper self-arrest (using both hands), but people of most heights can manage with most axe lengths. I self-arrested the other day with an ice tool, which is even shorter than my regular axe (I didn't feel like carrying both).

Edited to emphasize: an axe of any length is useless without proper self-arrest technique. It takes practice!

Re-edit with proper reference to the original question:

what length ice axe you would recommend for non-technical ... winter trail hiking.

If by "non-technical" you mean "not subjecting you to significant exposure", my answer is:
None. Poles are lighter.

 

[DougPaul]

Depends on what you want to use the axe for.
* Old style step cutting (circa 1800s): up to 2 meters
* Walking axe: cane length--should reach the ground plus an inch or two.
* General mountaineering axe--should reach the ground minus an inch or two. (Typically ~70 cm for average height climbers.)
* high angle ice climbing axe: ~50 cm.

The theory behind the general mountaineering axe is that an axe that will reach the ground is too long to use effectively on steep ground and you shouldn't need an axe on the level. A 70 cm axe also balances well for snow and ice climbing up to ~70 degrees.

Ski/trekking poles are often a better choice for easy ground. Sometimes I carry both adjustable poles (which can be stowed on my pack) and a general mountaineering axe.

Doug

 

[cbcbd]

Ski/trekking poles are often a better choice for easy ground. Sometimes I carry both adjustable poles (which can be stowed on my pack) and a general mountaineering axe.

This is also what I do and agree. Trekking poles work better for balance on lower angle.
If you're walking on glaciers a lot then I could see having a walking axe length.
At 6'1" I'd say go with a 70cm and no longer than a 75cm.

edit:

If by "non-technical" you mean "not subjecting you to significant exposure", my answer is:
None. Poles are lighter.

Also agree

 

[JoeCedar]

Shorter is better

I bought a short axe, 53 cm I think, because it spends 99.99% of its lifetime on my pack. I hiked behind a short guy who had a long axe and observed how it was endlessly catching on tree branches (certain snow bombs for both of us) and low hanging limbs. He needed a chiropractor to recover from the whiplash . He was frequently having to crawl under blowdowns because it would snag because it was higher than his head.

Obviously it was not good for walking, but as Doug suggests, just use poles. It does serve well, however, on steep slopes or for having a secure anchor for pulling myself up or stepping down steep icy spots.

Be

 

[DougPaul]

I should also add that ~70cm is a good length for self arrest. When the axe is held in self-arrest position, it is best if the spike is just past the hip. Much shorter and you have to be careful that you don't stab yourself in the gut with the spike. Much longer and the spike is likely to catch in the snow and rip the axe out of your hands.

~70 cm is also a reasonable length of step cutting.

Doug

 

[marty]

Thanks for all the advice (and a couple of laughs)

Regards,
Marty

 

[Kevin Rooney]

I'll add one more point.

On a truly long glissade, like those of a mile or more which are common in the west but rare in the east, an ice axe is used as a brake. It's very important to hold the top of the axe firmly, or else you're likely to whack your face/head with it (been there, done that). If the axe is too long, your arm will be rather high and will tire more quickly, which can lead to loss of control.

 

[DougPaul]

Yet another thought--probing glaciers for crevasses is a little easier on one's back if one's axe is a little on the long side. I've read suggestions that a ski pole (with the basket removed) or a probe pole make good alternatives.

Not really much of an issue here in the NE...

Doug

 

[Kevin Rooney]

Yet another thought--probing glaciers for crevasses is a little easier on one's back if one's axe is a little on the long side. I've read suggestions that a ski pole (with the basket removed) or a probe pole make good alternatives.

I think that's one of those things that depends upon the individual. As I said in my post above -

When slabbing along a steep slope and using it for a probe, you'll wish for a shorter one​

- if the slope is steep, then the continual raising it high over one's head is not only tiring, but makes it difficult to plunge it in the direction you intended if it's too long.

But "too long" is an individual choice. The above is my personal preference.

Thank goodness Marty didn't inquire about the pros and cons of leashes in the same thread...

 

[DougPaul]

I think that's one of those things that depends upon the individual. As I said in my post above -

When slabbing along a steep slope and using it for a probe, you'll wish for a shorter one​

- if the slope is steep, then the continual raising it high over one's head is not only tiring, but makes it difficult to plunge it in the direction you intended if it's too long.

Also depends upon whether you are going uphill, on the level, or downhill. The operator just has to be flexible. (Yes, the pun was intended...)

Thank goodness Marty didn't inquire about the pros and cons of leashes in the same thread...

Shhhh!

Doug

 

[Daubie]

I've been following along with great interest, as an ice axe purchase is in my immediate future. So, sorry, but.........

What are the pros and cons of the axe leashes, and what choices are availavble. Marty is probably typing out the same question, but I'll see if I can beat him to the punch

 

[Kevin Rooney]

I've been following along with great interest, as an ice axe purchase is in my immediate future. So, sorry, but.........

What are the pros and cons of the axe leashes, and what choices are availavble. Marty is probably typing out the same question, but I'll see if I can beat him to the punch

Well, here's a start:

Pros: The leash can aid in climbing to provide additional leverage. And, in the event of a fall, the axe won't be lost if it slips out of your hand.

Cons: If you fall and loose control of the axe, you may be injured by it.

Anyone else want to add more?

 

[cbcbd]

Leashes...

Pro: Good to have if you have to swing the axe over your head into the snow/ice (piolet traction? in the proper french)

Con: When zigzagging up a slope you have to keep switching the leash from hand to hand - you could attach it to your harness (if wearing one) to help with that.

Honestly, usually my axe leash just ends up spending most of the time wrapped around the head - which also helps keep your hand warmer when holding the axe.