Intoducing new dog to hiking?

[Peakbagr]

I'm learning a lot from this thread. Thanks.

Health issues kept our Springer to being a short-walk, backyard dog the last 3 years of her life and I'm going to be really conservative intoducing Bookah
to mountain trails and running. In looking for a new pooch, we spoke to a number of very experienced breeders, as well as a person who coordinates lab rescues for a state. We learned a couple of things.
Hip and elbow problems in labs and other larger breeds are thought to be 50% genetic, and 50% environmental. They all felt that if there arenn't genetic indicators in a particular dog, holding off on running and mountain hiking with the dog until the growth plates are fully formed, and the musculature develops to support those joints, you have a better chance of the dog being an active partner for most of its life. Sardog's points resonated with me about the dog jumping down from heights taller than itself.
So far, Bookah has been out in the yard with us every day, and I've been taking her out in the snowy woods. Its fun watching her discover all the little surprises and tracks she finds.

 

[Dugan]

It's so much fun to watch a pup exploring the world, isn't it? Everything is such a surprise to them. Audrey, I keep meaning to tell you that your puppy has the sweetest face!

My first hiker-dog was a Sheltie. She was he** on four paws, there wasn't anything that dog couldn't climb three times while we struggled to get over it once.

Pads will toughen up. Abrasive surfaces such as rocks (like rough granite) can sort of sand them down. I don't know why, but asphault and cement don't seem to have the same effect. Ice crust on snow can cause abrasions around pad edges. If it's solid enough, or the ice shards that fall from tree branches onto snow, both can slice pads. Whenever I hike on surfaces like snow, ice, or rocks, I try to keep checking the dog's feet for signs of wear. The time to get booties on is before an injury happens.

I always carry booties on a big hike. With a big dog, you can make an emergency bootie out of one of your own socks. You can also rig an emergency bootie out of vetrap. If you intend to try booties, get the dog used to them at home first, and make it a very positive experience (such as while hand feeding dinner). Once they get used to them on a secure surface, start expanding to different surfaces, then start bringing them for gradually longer and longer walks wearing them.

I've had trouble keeping booties on a dog. I've tried rigging suspenders from front to opposite side rear, which mostly works. Someone here said to try wrapping the leg where the top edge of the bootie hits in vetrap, put the bootie on, then duct tape the bootie to the vetrap. I haven't tried that yet. I haven't found a commercial pair of booties I like, I make my own.

For ice/snow balls between pads, try spraying the feet and between the toes with a cooking oil such as Pam. I don't find that clipping the hair between the pads helps.

If walking a dog in an area treated with chemicals for snow and ice, ALWAYS rinse their feet afterwards. They lick their paws to get the snow out. If not rinsed, they'll ingest whatever chemicals they just walked through.

 

[jade]

I agree, this is a very informative thread...thanks for the nice comments, Dugan!

There is a new product out, I've ordered it but have yet to recieve it. A small jar of wax like substance to put on your dog's paws before heading out into the snow. It discourages snow build up which causes the paw to spread out and become uncomfortable. From what I hear it also acts as a moisturerizer. Once I use it I'll offer feedback.........

 

[sierra]

dogs

This is a very informative thread and I was hopeing for some help. I resucued my dog ( a Keeshound) from a local shelter. She is currantly around 4 yrs old ( they est. her age at 9 months when they found here) so Ive had her for 3 yrs or so. The first 2 yrs she stayed at home with my ex when I hiked to keep her company, now my ex is gone and I want to take her hiking. Problem is she either cant do to some pysical reasons or just became a house dog.
Ive tried to ease her into it, she can go about 2 miles or so, then starts to sit down and wont budge. I dont want to force her and make her miserable but I think she might like it if I could get her over the hump so to speak. I think I might get an ecg as suggested in a previous post, to rule out heart problems, any other tips would be greatlty appreciated.

 

[Peakbagr]

I think the wax is called "Mushers" and it is supposed to be very good.

 

[Dugan]

Sierra: a trick I've used to help dogs that were reluctant to walk - after checking that there weren't any apparent physical reasons is: have someone drive you and dog from home, and drop you off within her walking distance, then walk home together. I've also used this successfully in reverse, for a dog that was car-shy. Bear in mind that not all dogs have an athletic frame of mind. Some are perfectly content to be house dogs.

A quick google search found this for Mushers wax, which I think someone else mentioned earlier in this thread. I haven't tried it.
http://www.handsnpaws.com/product/GEHLTHMUSHERS

 

[sierra]

hiking dog

Dugan
TY for your response. My dog can actually hike about 3 miles in the woods so far, but thats her limit. We do walk 3 times a day a least, around the neighborhoods and she never tires of that. MY goal is for her to hike 10 miles or more, I realize she will proboly never do the big peaks with me, but my training hikes average 7 to 14 miles and if she could do that Id be happy.
I think the problem lies in that she was a house dog for her fomidable years, but I will keep taking her out and try to get her to stretch her distances. Bottom line, if she does it great, if not, oh well, I wont force her and make her miserable, other then the hiking thing she's the best dog I could ask for, very well trained, loyal and knowing I rescued her makes my day every day.

 

[sardog1]

Ive tried to ease her into it, she can go about 2 miles or so, then starts to sit down and wont budge. I dont want to force her and make her miserable but I think she might like it if I could get her over the hump so to speak. I think I might get an ecg as suggested in a previous post, to rule out heart problems, any other tips would be greatlty appreciated.

First thing to do when confronted with a behavioral problem for which you cannot readily identify the cause is to take the dog to the vet to eliminate any organic cause. There are any number of physical reasons, both cardiac and otherwise, that she might be reaching her limit. And her actual comfort zone might be substantially less than two miles. Dogs can often keep going past the point they start being physically uncomfortable, simply because they want to stay with you and/or keep pleasing you.

 

[Dugan]

If a vet check doesn't reveal anything, it might not be a bad idea to consult with a behaviorist or trainer. Even if the vet shows nothing, I wouldn't force the issue, as long as the dog is getting enough exercise to remain healthy.

And once again, I agree with Sardog1, some dogs will go long past their comfort level to be with you. Several winters ago I was behind a hiker and dog for a few miles. The dog was leaving bloodied tracks and from the color of urine stains in the snow also appeared to have a bladder infection. When I caught up, I pointed out that the dog had at least two bleeding feet. Unfortunately for the dog, the hiker didn't seem to care. I left before forcing him to hike barefoot with bleeding feet on a thick ice crust over snow.

 

[sierra]

THanks for such great info. Ive decided to first see the Vet for a complete phyisical, then go from there. That post about seeing the bloody dog feet on the trail is a great example of why some people dont desearve to be pet owners. Thanks again.

 

[jbrown]

I haven't read everything in this thread, so forgive me if I repeat someone else's suggestions.

First, let me say that I am dreading the day when I have to make the decision do put my dog to sleep. He's only a little over three years old right now, but the thought still tears my eyes up. My heartfelt condolences, Peakbagr.

As far as discipline on the trail is concerned, I have found that if he's expecially rambunctious (as a 3 year old lab usually is...) a "Halti" or "gentle leader" type harness works wonderfully. He calms down immediately after I put it on him. It leads him from the nose so he's not choking on a collar, and it's easier on my arms if he tries to pull because it will turn him around to face me and cinch down on his mouth. Many times, after about 1/2 hour to 45 minutes of walking, he's calm enough to take the Halti off and hook the leash to his regular collar.

Good luck with the new addition to the family.

Josh

 

[smitty77]

Halti and other harnesses

I can second the suggestion of a "walking" harness. I have a very active and curious Siberian that has had no problem pulling me right down the mountain, often blazing her own trail. After my wife nearly ended up face down on the trail on one hike, I went and bought a Sporn harness from a local retailer and have been very pleased with the results. The Sporn is different in that it goes around the neck like a regular collar, only the leash attaches to two padded cords that run through rings on the back of the collor, behind and under the front legs, and up the chest to the front of the collar. When the dog pulls on the leash, the harness restriction gives the dog an unpleasnat feeling. This stopped my dog from pulling immediately, and as long as she doesn't pull hard on the leash, she doesn't even know it is there.

Smitty

 

[Dugan]

The thing to remember about no-pull harnesses (Sporn), halters (Gentle Leader), prong collars, choke collars, and other devices is that they are artificial aids. They are not a substitute for training. Depending on the intelligence and stubborness of the dog and the skill of the trainer, they can learn how to pull with these. I've used each of these in different situations and with different dogs. I won't go into the pros and cons here because this isn't a dog board. Do some research and/or work with a trainer before deciding the best option for you and your dog. With that said, if your dog pulls, use of these aids can be a great intermediate step to help make hiking with your dog much more pleasant.

With any equipment on your dog, check for chafing. The thin cords of the Sporn can result in a rope burn. I'm not picking on just the Sporn, watch for chafing with any and all equipment. Also, check each piece on each dog. Something that doesn't chafe one dog may chafe another. A thick, heavy coat is also not proof against chafing.

 

[Peakbagr]

Our son has a 70 lb Staffie that occasionally stays with us. When I run with Janie and she's wearing a woven nylon "choke" collar, she generally tows me the first mile or two unless I take care to get it right up behind her ears.
When we use a Haltie collar, I have much better control, but I would think the Haltie would snag on a hike though.
I'm going to take a look at the Sporn.

 

[smitty77]

...she generally tows me the first mile or two unless I take care to get it right up behind her ears.

That's the same reason I don't use a traditional metal choke collar. If it slips too far down her neck it becomes ineffective. That and it would tug at her fur. Dugan's right in regards to the chafing. I haven't had a problem with the sporn as long as I regurlarly wash the fleece protectors that go over the cords. I looked at a lot of options before I settled on the sporn. I had a "we'll try it an see" attitude when I bought it, and I got lucky that she liked it. My wife said it was quite comical watching me wrestle her into it the first few times. Almost as comical as the doggie-bootie incident from a few weeks ago, but I digress. Now she happily steps right into it. (The sporn, not the booties.)

It's been a challenge training the dog to pull on some occasions, and not others. (I'm now training her to pull a small sled.) After a few trials, I think she's getting used to it. Black sporn harness = walking = no pulling. Blue x-back harness = sledding = pull like hell.

 

[griffin]

I think the wax is called "Mushers" and it is supposed to be very good.

"Musher's Secret" - and it does work very well at protecting the pads. My keeshound Ollie was having a heck of a time even walking around town (worse, probably, because of all the salt) this winter, but putting MS on his paws has made a world of difference. The salt hardly bothers him and he's not getting snowballs between his toes on the trail. You might want to go lightly with it if your dog has a sensitive GI tract (it gave my mom's dog the wet nasties, but then many things do) Petroleum jelly works well, too, but I find it sometimes requires reapplication during a hike/ski.

This is a great thread - very informative. We, too, lost a dog recently, and while we're not ready yet, I hope to get another pup by this summer. Ollie came to us as an adult and the late Griffin never went on long hikes (she was older by the time I started hiking), so this will be the first time I've had to think about introducing a puppy to the trail. The posts here will be very helpful, I'm sure

and no anti-dog rants!