lincolns throat beta

[giggy]

very good chance myself and another climber are going to attempt this sat if weather is good - I have seen the NEICE description, etc..

I know a few people on views have done this and looking for any useful information (pix would be great) on what to expect, hints, useful info that will help us. etc...

just looking for good solid info here, we know the risks, done our research, etc.. and both have climbing skills.

thanks!!

 

[DougPaul]

It just so happens that I hiked the Bridle Path yesterday and "just happened" to take some pictures of the slides on Lincoln. PM me your email address and I will send you some copies.

Doug

 

[Hampshire]

Giggy,

We hiked up to the hairpin turn on the Old Bridal Path trail and took a right (trail goes left) down to the bottom of a ravine. We crossed this ravine and headed up it(northeast). After about ten minutes my partner realized that we were in the wrong ravine, he knew because the ravine you want has a distinct “U” shape and has an unobstructed view to the southwest. We dropped down to where we crossed the ravine and continued south across a ridge and down to the correct ravine. Ten minutes after we started up this ravine we turned around and could clearly make out the “U” shape and view to the southwest. There was a small ice bulge about two thirds of the way up we soloed. The headwall was lacking ice when we where there so we had to bail to the climbers right as we didn’t bring any rock gear. We didn’t rope up until we reached the headwall. This could be a perfect time to make this climb (low snow, and the recent cold weather should have brought the ice back). Plan for a long day, have a great time (sorry no pictures). Hope this helps.

 

[sierra]

Ive done the throat as well, but have no pictures as I took none. This is a good year to do it as the approach will be way easier given snow depths and how hard everything is. I carried rock and ice gear, make sure you have short screws or be prepared to tie off longer screws, I found alot of ice but it was mainly thin in nature, for rock gear on alpine routes such as the throat I carry a assortment of cams and pins, I find chalks and stoppers to be a pain in the ass in cracks that are typically ice filled or at least have a coating of ice in them, that makes for difficult nut selection imo and fireing a pin is quicker and way bomber, just make sure your second has a hammer (you proboly know this). I did this route a few years ago any conditions I encountered obviously are not the same as now, but I would expect snow covered rock interladen with ice of varing thickness. The key to me is speed, I bivied at the base to save time, I wouldnt do that again, we climbed alot of the route together with running belays and only anchored 2 times for belays, it was easy most of the way and we saved much time using this method, obviously you and your partner must feel comfortable climbing in this style.
Dont know if this helped in any way but I tried, good luck its a classic imo.
P.S. This route has the potential to avalanche, but given the conditions now, it should be stable, but take that advice for what you paid for it and check conditions yourself.

 

[giggy]

thanks all!

should be good.