Most Difficult New England Winter 4kers

[DayTrip]

Thanks all. I have actually done several winter hikes already, much of it above treeline, and have a good intro to the types of conditions I can expect. I definitely play it conservative when I'm out, whatever the season. I did all the 48 4000 footers this past 15 months as day trips from CT as well as a lot of other recon hikes so I thoroughly research the weather, river levels, trip reports, etc and plan accordingly. I carry plenty of gear for whatever may come, including a GPS and PLB, so I try to reduce my risk as much as I can. I have no problem turning around or doing a lesser hike when the weather doesn't cooperate. And if the weather is that bad I stay home.

I guess I'm looking for specifics that maybe don't exist. There are specific points on many of the trails done in the summer that I would say are noteworthy, such as the chimney on Osceola. I just figured there would be more "known issues" worth discussion on the winter routes that the AMC guide and other references don't cover, but seasoned hikers are aware of. Apparently I'll learn these spots as I go.

bikehikeskifish: I already did Waumbek in the winter this past Memorial Day Weekend!! 8" of snow on top, snowed all day and had to road walk the access road because all the trees had bent over and plenty of face slappers on the way up. Good reminder of exactly how unpredictable the Whites can be.

mirabela: I find it amazing how many people I run into all times of the year and no matter how off the beaten path the trail is. I did Hale last January on a weekday as a road walk and met three other solo hikers on the trail. I did Cannon the following week on a day when it was -12 deg F on summit (before wind) and met 4 other hikers that day too. The day I referenced above on Waumbek I had to have passed at least 40 people coming down. I've only done 1 hike in 25+ years that I didn't see anyone (The Tripyramids via the slides on a Friday this summer). Hiking has definitely become very popular again.

 

[Stan]

Tim suggests "safe" hikes and I might take that further to suggest rephrasing the question as the most "dangerous" winter 4000 footers. As many have pointed out, that could vary at any time so here's my list of what constitutes dangerous, aside from bad weather which, to me, starts with freezing rain. 1) Long exposures, especially to either the prevailing winds or the weather pattern at the time. 2) Unbroken trail which wears me out faster. 3) Conditions in which bailout option(s) take you away from where you really want to go. 4) Possibly challenging water crossing which could depend on snow depth/pack not to mention the size of your your inseam. Taking the least dangerous choice for the conditions would seem a good way to approach your list.

 

[mirabela]

mirabela: I find it amazing how many people I run into all times of the year and no matter how off the beaten path the trail is. I did Hale last January on a weekday as a road walk and met three other solo hikers on the trail. I did Cannon the following week on a day when it was -12 deg F on summit (before wind) and met 4 other hikers that day too. The day I referenced above on Waumbek I had to have passed at least 40 people coming down. I've only done 1 hike in 25+ years that I didn't see anyone (The Tripyramids via the slides on a Friday this summer). Hiking has definitely become very popular again.

DayTrip - very true, although that changes a whole lot as soon as you head someplace that's not on "the list." My daughter and I hiked Webster on a sunny Saturday in February a few years ago; there must have been 100 people on Jackson, but we only saw one hiker on our peak. Anyway -- sounds like you've got your bases covered, have fun!

 

[Raven]

I guess I'm looking for specifics that maybe don't exist. There are specific points on many of the trails done in the summer that I would say are noteworthy, such as the chimney on Osceola. I just figured there would be more "known issues" worth discussion on the winter routes that the AMC guide and other references don't cover, but seasoned hikers are aware of. Apparently I'll learn these spots as I go.

Day Trip: to be specific, it sounds like what you are getting is the crux of each particular trip. In other words, what makes a route difficult is often one short stretch that involves a steep scramble or crossing a slide, etc. For common winter routes, pay attention to (below tree line examples):

1. East Osceola in winter coming up from Greeley Ponds has some sections that cause me to take as much care as anywhere. You cross a slide on the ascent, generally angled upward across the face. There are also numerous steep pitches on this trail. I carry crampons on this hike without question and have been happy to have the security. To be fair, others bareboot it. The chimney between the peaks has a bypass which also has a bypass. That part can be avoided with care if necessary. The first step off East Osceola on the return trip can be a doozy as well. Usually a steep drop into what has become a luge by the end of the day.

2. There is often an ice bulge shortly below Bondcliff when ascending from Lincoln Woods that can take some time and care to navigate. It is not as dangerous IMO as #1 but in some cases is difficult. It's close to the top.

3. The Wildcats heading up E first has an exposed and potentially dangerous steep rock face people sometimes cross in winter (documented on here with a search). I avoid that one and head up from Carter Notch Hut, which is no picnic either if it's unbroken but avoids the dangers. Most ascend via the ski trail at this point it appears.

4. Don't get lost between Starr King and Waumbek. That mile stretch is beauiful and one of my favorites in the Whites. It also gets windswept covering your tracks quickly and can offer challenging route finding for what is often an easy winter ascent. Double check the map and compass before heading out on that stretch if solo and windy.

5. Similarly, if doing a Bonds Traverse or climbing Zealand, don't get caught between Zeacliff and the summit of Zealand after dark. You could wander around that stretch of evergreen for years. This can also be very difficult route finding and wind swept.

I do most of my winter hiking solo - it does take some extra precaution, but that extra precaution is often a little lax in group hikes in my experience. People rely on safety in numbers a bit much sometimes. Enjoy it and be safe.

 

[peakbagger]

One of the most dangerous spots on the 4k list is probably Haystack on the Liberty Lafayette route. Specifically folks climb up falling waters trail in the winter under the shelter of trees most of the way to treeline and then when they leave the trees and head up to Haystack the full force of the wind hits them. Unfortunately finding the way back into the trees is difficult and many folks have gotten lost trying to turn around in windy winter conditions and there have been more than few rescues in this small area. At other times with no wind and a sunny day its a non issue but add in wind and visibility and it can get dangerous in a very short time.

 

[MichaelJ]

After fresh snow it's very easy to get lost on the Willey Ridge Trail between the A-Z junction and Field, and between Field and Willey. There are numerous sections where the trees are somewhat open and sparse, thus there is no clear corridor to follow, and no blazes. There are also a few spots that get windblown so you can't even follow your own tracks, and one spot where you could easily slide to the side and end up in deep snowy trouble. You wouldn't think of T-F-W as being that difficult, but until it's all tracked out, they can be among the tougher.

 

[sardog1]

One of the most dangerous spots on the 4k list is probably Haystack on the Liberty Lafayette route. Specifically folks climb up falling waters trail in the winter under the shelter of trees most of the way to treeline and then when they leave the trees and head up to Haystack the full force of the wind hits them. Unfortunately finding the way back into the trees is difficult and many folks have gotten lost trying to turn around in windy winter conditions and there have been more than few rescues in this small area. At other times with no wind and a sunny day its a non issue but add in wind and visibility and it can get dangerous in a very short time.

Yeah, what he said: Missing Hikers Found in Franconia Notch; One Dead

 

[Lawn Sale]

Winter definitely adds a measure of uncertainty into the mix.

A lot of people are turned around on the higher peaks due to changing conditions. I was on Lafayette when an ice storm moved in, creating a whole new set of conditions. Would this be a hard hike normally? Nope (and earlier on that February day we were in t-shirts) but with an ice storm and blizzard it sure was.

I hiked Carter Dome solo one winter and broke trail the whole way after a fresh dumping, and it took me about 2 hours to hike the 0.9 miles from the 19MB junction to the top. Major pain and totally draining, as marty mentioned. I was glad I brought my trail skis for the trail out since they saved a ton of time.

I never found the Bonds that intimidating but was humbled when I hiked them in winter and managed to puncture my eye on a tree branch while doing them solo. McRat and others were willing to come to my rescue should I say the word, but after the blood stopped and a reassessment I decided to press onward since I was almost there. I found Flume, Liberty, and Garfield were quite difficult when I hiked them in the days after I broke my shoulder on Cannon, despite the excellent conditions. I never would have made it if BobNGeri hadn't been there to help me over the steep stuff.

As a result, I find the difficulty of the hike is more influenced with conditions of the hike rather than the actual geographical parameters like steepness, distance, or water crossings.

 

[sierra]

As a technically proficient hiker/climber, to me the hardest 4k's are the long distance hikes, ie. Owls head, Bonds, Isolation. For others, the technical aspects of a climb could be the crux. To me the snowfields of Jefferson are easy, to a novice with a brand new ice axe or just poles, they could be deadly. Also exposure can be another issue that effects hikers differently, to be above treeline on the high peaks, Jefferson, Adams, Washington can be dicey to a novice, navigation in low visibility conditions is a skill developed with experience as is dealing with wind chill and general tough conditions. My first winter climbs on the high exposed peaks was met with limited success, I chose to climb within my comfort level and retreat when I felt overwhelmed. This threshold increased every season with experience. Some in past years have pushed their threshold too soon, resulting in many of the deaths and rescues we hear about every year. My best advice for winter 4k novices, push yourself within your comfort level, but realize when your over your head, the Whites can be both beautiful and deadly.

 

[hikerbrian]

The section of Garfield Ridge trail between Mt. Garfield and Mt. Lafayette.

Looks easy on the map, but it is not. It has gotten a reputation for being difficult, so many folks in-the-know avoid that stretch. Plus, it's an uncommon daytrip route to any peak. The result is deep drifts, untracked powder, and difficult route finding, all on top of the pountless-ups-and-downs that make it a physical challenge even in summer. If you venture there in winter, be fit, and be good with yer map and compass. You actually won't see many people.

 

[Daniel Eagan]

Thanks to everyone for their input, this is a very informative thread.

 

[DougPaul]

There are several potentially difficult and dangerous spots on "normal" hiking trails which have often been the site of accidents. (Several have been mentioned already.)
A partial list of specific locations:
* Greenleaf Tr shortly below the summit of Lafayette: an icy sheet can form here leading to bad falls with long runouts.
* Wildcat Mtn Tr between the summit and Carter Notch hut where the trail crosses a slide path. It ices up and there has been at least one accident here.
* The snowfield between Jefferson and Edmonds Col. The trail traverses a steep section of snow/ice with bad fall potential.

In general:
* Trail finding can be difficult in open woods, on overgrown trails, on minimally/poorly maintained trails, and above timberline in poor visibility. It can often be difficult to find where a trail enters the trees when descending from above timberline. (Look back on the way up to memorize the location and/or record a waypoint with a GPS. Wands can also be used to mark a route to the entrance.)
* Weather can change rapidly. For instance one can be caught out above timberline in sudden high winds, poor visibility, and/or precipitation. (Cold fronts like to rain on you and finish up with cold temps and high winds... Drops of 40F in a few hours are not unheard of.)
* Rain at temps of 32-50F is an invitation for hypothermia. (Many such deaths occur at above freezing temps because clothing gets wet.)
* Breaking though ice into water has lead to a number of desperate situations.
* Steep terrain anywhere carries the risk of bad sliding falls and possible avalanche.

Doug

 

[roadtripper]

I'm sure someone's got a story about how they almost died in a whiteout on Waumbek.

Funny you say this...the worst spruce trap I ever fell into was on Waumbek the day after a 3 foot snowstorm about 5-6 years ago. I literaly could NOT get out of it on my own. My friend and girlfriend at the time had to dig me out beause my snowshoes were completely stuck and I was bent in a way that I couldn't reach them

 

[DayTrip]

Thanks all for the added specifics. This is more the type of info I imagined when I started post.

 

[Kevin Rooney]

One of the most dangerous spots on the 4k list is probably Haystack on the Liberty Lafayette route. Specifically folks climb up falling waters trail in the winter under the shelter of trees most of the way to treeline and then when they leave the trees and head up to Haystack the full force of the wind hits them. Unfortunately finding the way back into the trees is difficult and many folks have gotten lost trying to turn around in windy winter conditions and there have been more than few rescues in this small area. At other times with no wind and a sunny day its a non issue but add in wind and visibility and it can get dangerous in a very short time.

This is indeed a tricky section, and I'd like to point out that in the past few years it's gotten safer with the building of several substantial cairns beginning at treeline. However, under the right conditions (heavy rime accumulation, flat light, etc) you can be standing beside a 6' cairn and be uncertain whether it's a cairn or another rocky protrusion. Whenever I ascend this trail I always make a mental note of the relative "visibility" of these cairns in the event I decide to save the ridge itself for another day. As an added safety measure, I sometimes brush off a dinner plate size spot on the uphill side of each cairn, so that the gray rock is now visible. That way, if I do return that way later in the day, these spots stand out and lead the way back into the trees - and relative safely - more quickly.

In a related observation - the summit of Little Haystack is one of the windiest spots along the ridge, often having somewhat higher wind speeds than the summits of Lincoln and Lafayette. Over the years I learned not to make a go/no go decision from Little Haystack, but a quarter mile of so north. The wind speeds there are more representative of what will be encountered ahead. If they're still out of my comfort zone 1/4 mile north, then I backtrack and admire the frozen cascades on the way down a second time.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Dr D (remember him?) was famous for reminding us to write the bearings for the Falling Waters Trail and the Greenleaf Trail/Hut on the back of our compass

Tim

 

[Driver8]

I agree, the underlying "all things being equal" objective rankings get totally trumped by conditions.

The respondents have covered a lot of the important points. I realize this isn't what you posted about, and I don't like to tell anyone what to do, but you might want to consider doing some winter hikes with experienced people before going out on your own, especially to the more remote peaks, or above treeline, or at 'off' times. There's a lot to learn, and the winter mountains can be pretty unforgiving of small oversights.

I wholly agree with this. I come in towards the low end of fitness and experience for this group, but I'd just note that, from my limited winter experience, the mountains of New England, especially the bigger ones, clad in snow are much tougher than in warmer climes. Better to start small and to hike with a partner or a group on the first few winter hikes. A really smart, experienced winter hiker, and there are many here, can teach you a lot when out on a winter trek. Small is a relative term, of course, so for you that might mean hitting the Osceolas or Field-Willey-Tom to start with and, before long doing a Presi Traverse, while for someone else something else. ...

 

[DayTrip]

I see several references to the Falling Waters trail to Little Haystack. Is that a common winter route? I would have thought that would be very dangerous and icy in the winter, requiring technical gear and experience. If so many people take it then I assume that is not the case. Are there bushwhacks of certain falls or a "winter route"? Wouldn't have thought this would be a viable trail in winter.

 

[Kevin Rooney]

I see several references to the Falling Waters trail to Little Haystack. Is that a common winter route? I would have thought that would be very dangerous and icy in the winter, requiring technical gear and experience. If so many people take it then I assume that is not the case. Are there bushwhacks of certain falls or a "winter route"? Wouldn't have thought this would be a viable trail in winter.

Combined with OBP, it might be one the most popular winter trails. Certainly in the top 5.

 

[thegibba]

I always skip the first 2 (lower) water crossings by staying on the north side of the river just before the first crossing. There is a herd path in summer that fades 20 yards or so away at the top and bottom of this "whack". The top end of it ends up just above the second crossing.