"No Shortcuts to the Top" by Ed Viesturs

[gram]

"No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks" by Ed Viesturs

I liked this book because he discusses his personal history as well as his adventures. It's an interesting look at how you do or do not make a living at mountaineering.

 

[TomD]

I read this a while back. The problem I found with it was he jumped around chronologically from chapter to chapter and so it was hard sometimes to keep track of where he was and who he was with in any kind of order. Other than that, it was pretty interesting.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

I read this a while back. The problem I found with it was he jumped around chronologically from chapter to chapter and so it was hard sometimes to keep track of where he was and who he was with in any kind of order. Other than that, it was pretty interesting.

I agree 100%. This was discussed in http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=14439&highlight=shortcuts+viesturs when the book first came out. I made essentially this same comment.

Tim

 

[Whiteman]

Turning Back

All of Ed's amazing accomplishments--without oxygen--were the obvious centerpiece of his book. But I really liked his message about personal safety. He was never unwilling to turn back when safety was a question, even when a summit was in view.

 

[Mad Townie]

But I really liked his message about personal safety. He was never unwilling to turn back when safety was a question, even when a summit was in view.

Kinda like the recent VFTT team on Denali, turning around 400 feet below the summit.

I'm glad I have smart friends!

 

[kaseri]

I had the pleasure of attending & meeting Ed during his Endeavor 8000 lecture/slideshow tour. It was amazing to see his personal photos and hear about his experiences on each mountain.

 

[TomD]

I agree 100%. This was discussed in http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=14439&highlight=shortcuts+viesturs when the book first came out. I made essentially this same comment.

Tim

You sure did; I went back and read it. I must have missed that thread somehow or most likely forgotten about it.

I read another outdoor book a while back that had the same problem. The story was really compelling, but the sequencing problems were irritating.

I know Dave Roberts has written other books; you would think their editor would have sorted that out, that's what they get paid to do.

The recent big accident on K2 demonstrates for me that any criticism of Viesturs, and I have read some, proves that his methods have served him well since he's still around to talk about his accomplishments.

 

[DougPaul]

The recent big accident on K2 demonstrates for me that any criticism of Viesturs, and I have read some, proves that his methods have served him well since he's still around to talk about his accomplishments.

While one can choose one's risks to some extent, luck still plays a large role.

For instance, in 1972 Tony Tighe was base camp manager on one of Bonnington's Everest expeditions. At the end of the expedition, he took one trip from basecamp up into the Western Cwm. A serac chose that moment to collapse, killing him... None of the high altitude climbers or high altitude porters were killed.

Doug

 

[JohnL]

I think some of the criticism surround Ed Viesturs is about his lack of pushing new routes (i.e., increasing the danger factor) though Ed has always made it clear that he is all about safety first despite the opening chapter of his book which shows that on any 8000M peak that can get thrown out the window at any time. Coincidentally enough, that was also on the Abruzzi Ridge on K2.

I also read Ed's book a while back and the further I got into the book the more of an appreciation I gained from his story. I thought I was going to read another blah blah story of another climber going up some peaks in the Himalayas but I was pleasantly surprised. I did not have any problems with the time continuum nor did I expect there to be one. I find that when there is a flashback or flashforward it is to provide a connection of context that you would not get from a straight time line story. Come to think of it, I'm not sure I've ever read a biography or memoir that was ever written in a straight time line sequence. To me the editing is not about straightening out the chronology but arranging the writing into a compelling story.

JohnL

 

[bikehikeskifish]

I said it in the other thread, but I've re-read the book now (in early July) and found it still to be not-overly-compelling, occasionally difficult to follow, time-wise, and overly focused on Everest with only a casual mention of some of the "two-fers".

Tim

 

[eddie]

Aside from the safety aspect, Ed V. also chose a "climb your own climb" philosophy. He didn't buckle to the background noise of the guys pushing the limits.