North Face slide of Gothics

[JeffT]

I’ve been seriously thinking of climbing Gothics this weekend via the Ribbon Slide. How technical is this route? Are mountaineering axes required? Roped belay?

 

[deadpoint]

the adk "climbing in the adirondacks" guide book rates TNF gothics as nei 2, which basicly means low-angled ice, climbable with out front pointing.

i'll be attempting this climb in march and i plan on bringing a fairly decient ice rack, ice tools, 6+ ice screws, ice pitons, slings and runners for belay stations, 50 meter rope, etc.

for better beta on this climb post your questions on www.neice.com and call the mountaineer in keene valley for up to date conditions.

 

[daxegraphix]

North face o Gothics

If I understand you correctly you mean the slide on the left, rather than the actual ice climb of the North Face itself. If so, see the thread that was posted Dec. 18 for more info. The post was titled, "True North slide same as Ribbon Slide?"

 

[JeffT]

Thanks daxegraphix, I've read the previous posts. Yes, I am talking about the thin slide on the left.

The previous posts don't provide a description of what it's like in the winter. I need to know if we need mountaineering axes, or if the grade is steep enough to need ice tools, which is the case if Deadpoint is talking about the same slide.

Thanks for the help!

Jeff

 

[AOC]

The True North slide is a snow climb, which I have done several times with only a mountaineering axe. The slope is relatively low angle, no steeper than the cable section of the trail. But you should be competent at self-arrest because you could go for a long ride in hard snow conditions. Approach is the same as for the face climbs. Climb up left for about 100 vertical feet and then break left through the trees for about 100 yards to gain the slide. Have fun.

 

[JeffT]

Ah! This is exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the help. This will be fun for sure.

 

[Pete_Hickey]

Ah! This is exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the help. This will be fun for sure.

If you are going without ice climbing gear make absolutely certain you are on the correct slide. A fall in the winter is no fun. Trust me. I speak from experience.

 

[daxegraphix]

True North slide

Are you going by yourself up the slide? Let us know how it goes. I'm 90% a solo hiker, but for this slide I was thinking it would not be a good idea. (My next day off is not till Feb. 4. I might've tried to invite myself along this weekend.)

 

[Reekee]

Into Thin Ice

A few years ago we did the main face which is just right of the hedgerow that divides both slides that ends at about 500 ft. up. What started out to be what seemed to be a "walk up" turned out to be very technical above the hedgerow. We ran into a 50ft section of very thin ice. We had the gear and were very thankful we did. Enjoy your trip. It's classic!

 

[JeffT]

There will be four us (hopefully). We'll be going up with 10-point crampons and mountaineering axes. We will also bring rope and snow anchors, just in case there a section where we feel uncomfortable.

I'll post a trip report next week.

 

[reed820]

Jeff,

Would love to hear a report from your trip... The way I have done this climb in the summer is approach via the drainage directly below the North Face proper and then cut left once the face is in full view and bushwack for 15 minutes until you reach the True North Slide...

If this is how you are doing it, some beta (read: pictures) of the North Face proper would be awesome. Also, would love to hear the snow conditions on True North (aka: Ribbon Slide). Have fun....

 

[JeffT]

Trip Report

I have posted a trip report in the trip report section. But, to make a long story short, we climbed the wrong slide, but still had a blast. Snow conditions were poor, as there isn't much snow on the slide yet. It will be a much better climb later in the winter season.

-Jeff

 

[NYBRAD]

Good news

A bird whistled in my ear and said the conditions were great for the NF of Gothics yesterday..........