Rope-a-dope on Rainier/Hood

[Motabobo]

I don't have any questions about Ali but rather about recommendations of a 30M twin rope (used singly) for classic glacier routes on rainier or hood ?

Thanks

 

[Frodo]

Personally, I like to use 9mm+ ropes for glacier travel. 8mm is borderline in my opinion... But, for the standard routes up Hood and Rainier you would likely be fine...

 

[Kevin Rooney]

Personally, I like to use 9mm+ ropes for glacier travel. 8mm is borderline in my opinion... But, for the standard routes up Hood and Rainier you would likely be fine...

Another vote for 9mm -

 

[Motabobo]

Aren't you guys talking about a 9MM single rope by any chance ? with a 30M length ?! Where can I find that ?

 

[Kevin Rooney]

Yes, a 9mm rope. They usually come in lengths of 50-70 meters. Have you checked
MEC? I just looked at their website, and they sell an 8mm rope in either 20m or 30m. It's a bit on the light side, but if you fell into a crevasse chances are it wouldn't be too far.

Why 30m? A 2-man rope team?

 

[cbcbd]

All ropes from the major players will be good and hold falls, but they each have their own personal qualities that you get to know - bluewater, maxim, mammut, beal, petzl, sterling... all good and everyone will be partial to the manufacturer of the first rope they buy. I'm partial to Mammut ropes because my first rope was a Mammut and they tend to have thick sheaths - that means durability but it doesn't handle as smoothly as a Bluewater rope.

I have used my 8.5mm 60m Genesis Half rope for glacier travel. When it's time for me to get new doubles I will cut my Genesis for glacier travel/skiing.

About the thickness - Rarely will you be taking high impact forces on a glacier rope. I would imagine the slipping of your partner while he tries to self arrest and the rope cutting into the side of a crevasse wall would do a pretty good job at lessening the impact force on you and your piece of protection - your partner.
Singles and half ropes will tend to have similar impact forces but thicker ropes will hold more falls of the same weight in the long run. Again it's about weight and durability. Heavier, thicker ropes will hold more falls. I'd take a thinner rope because its lighter and retire it if I fell on it 3 times - and at that point I'd work on my route finding too

Don't fall!

 

[giggy]

what everyone said - I have a 9.2mm 60 meter single and coiled it in a kiwicoil -and made it into a shorter rope on rainier/adams, etc... We used rougly 25 to 35 foot (RMI recomendation) intervals.

Hood - you guys can make the call, but if your doing the standard route and you head up the old chute (from what I gather this is used more now than the gates) - you don't have to cross the bergshrund. which means a crevasse fall is not likely. But - there are 2 furmaholes at the bottom of the old chute - you fall in there and your toast due to CO2 poison

The slopes of the old chute are steep (maybe 45 degrees) you may choose not to use a rope on hood as it might be safer via old chute. Some rope some don't

have fun - you won't want to come back east after those peaks..

 

[Motabobo]

Why 30m?

Why 30M ? For three main reasons:
1-Team of only two as you mentionned
2-Classic glacier routes so I don't see the absolute need of having 60 or even 50M of coiled rope since there'll be no lowering or rappelling.
3-Serious weight saving

Of course having a longer rope would facilitate crevasse rescues and such but I don't consider my planned routes to be of any threat. My idea is to bring 2 strands of twin rope, using only one strand for glacier travel and if, for any reasons I haven't planned, it gets more technical and such, we pull out the other strand and push on.

I was just curious as what others are using since I thought single 50/60M single ropes were more popular for easy glacier travel.

Still any specific models to suggest ? I was thinking that Beal Rando.

Thanks

 

[giggy]

I just have one rope - so it does everything I need.

I don't climb vertical waterfall ice and don't really rock climb so a 9.2m works for me for it all - I am typically on lower angle snow/ice/glaicer climbs where there will be a slide more than a fall - so I don't have a need for anything thicker.

I don't have the cash to be buying 5 different ropes - esp when I go out west one time per year, so coil it up is the name of game for me...

I use the mammut revelation

 

[Kevin Rooney]

Why 30M ? For three main reasons:
1-Team of only two as you mentionned
2-Classic glacier routes so I don't see the absolute need of having 60 or even 50M of coiled rope since there'll be no lowering or rappelling.
3-Serious weight saving

Of course having a longer rope would facilitate crevasse rescues and such but I don't consider my planned routes to be of any threat. My idea is to bring 2 strands of twin rope, using only one strand for glacier travel and if, for any reasons I haven't planned, it gets more technical and such, we pull out the other strand and push on.

I was just curious as what others are using since I thought single 50/60M single ropes were more popular for easy glacier travel.

Still any specific models to suggest ? I was thinking that Beal Rando.

Thanks

I use 30m Beal for glacier travel. I don't know if it's a 'Rando' - it's yellow, with black and flourescent orange strands in it, if that helps. No complaints with it - it's light, too. It's been up a few peaks, including the ones you mention, but as giggy points out - whether you actually use/need it on Hood is a good question. Depends upon the conditions, the route and the comfort level of you and your partner.

Edit - I do recall that it's a dry rope, and I think I got it at REI.

 

[DougPaul]

I have a 45m 9mm for glacier travel. We tied in at the 1/3 and 2/3 points to have ends to lower to the victim.

Doug

 

[cbcbd]

My idea is to bring 2 strands of twin rope, using only one strand for glacier travel and if, for any reasons I haven't planned, it gets more technical and such, we pull out the other strand and push on.

If you are planning on bringing two ropes of 30m each, why not get a 60m of the same thickness - you'll be carrying that same weight anyway and you'll get more versatility from a full rope.
-For glacier travel you can coil the extra rope equally between the 2 people and so each person will have access to extra rope in case of crevasse.
-For longer semi technical pitches where a fall won't see great forces you could pitch out a full 60m.
-For shorter technical pitches where you could place a strong force on the rope you can double the rope over and climb with both strands for a full 30m.
-If you had to, you could lower someone a full 60m - good in case of emergencies

And if you get the 60m and decide that you only need 30m, you can always cut the rope

I was just curious as what others are using since I thought single 50/60M single ropes were more popular for easy glacier travel.

If I had unlimited funds and did glacier routes all the time I'd get a shorter 30m for glacier/skiing... but I already have 4 ropes (2 singles, 2 doubles). I use my double because I had it already from climbing.
30m twin or double ropes don't have much versatility and that's why I think you'll probably see "most" people using single or double 60m ropes for glacier travel - 60m singles are more versatile, can still be used for rock/ice climbing and honestly, it's harder to find specific technical ropes (twins/doubles/odd lengths) in most stores but any store will stock 60m single ropes.

Still any specific models to suggest ? I was thinking that Beal Rando.

I'm partial to Mammut so I'm going to say get a Phoenix 8mm double or the Twilight 7.5 twin - I like Mammut's thicker sheaths. Do you have a store nearby that stocks a good selection of ropes or can you basically choose anything? Like I said, any rope will be good, just choose what thickness you're comfortable with and try to find a good deal somewhere.