XCountry Skiis

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Stan said:
I guess I'm a sufficiently mediocre xc skier that I always wonder, why would anyone want to mess with wax?
Yesterday, when I (on my waxable skis) was cruising past all my skiing partners (on their waxless skis) going downhill, they were asking the reverse. I waxed once before we headed out and had no problem keeping up on the uphills. And I was glide king for the day.
 
Finding a mid-weight leather boot proved futile. There was a story that the Limmers tried to produce one ten years or so ago and just couldn't make it profitable, even with their pedigree.

During the whole purchasing process, no one ever brought up the idea of waxable skis until I did, and even then the experts (no sarcasm at all, the guys/gal at the Mountaineer were top-notch) said waxing is becoming a lost art, one which I would have been willing to learn. They also mentioned a couple models which would no longer be available in waxable form (including the Fischer Outtabounds).

I did glide-wax my virgin Karhu's after a half-mile: tremendous improvement.
 
When you first purchase a new pair of skis, or have them ground, you should iron in several (3-4) applications of a relatively soft wax, like CH10 or STAR yellow, scrape and brush between, just to saturate and protect the bases. The last application can be 'hot-scraped' (scrape after solidification but before the ski cools) which will put out any dirt or impurities in the ski. Then let it set, scrape, bronze brush the heck out of it to get as much wax out as possible.

Now you're ready to do the wax of the day.

And yes, the simple application of Swix F4 on waxless skis will make a huge difference. When conditions are "ideal" for waxless skis, they are also ideal for skating (skate skiing) and that's one of the things I live for... so I never use the waxless skis any more. Conversely, ideal hardwax conditions (cold, fresh snow with sharp crystals) are not so good for skating and that's when I drag out the waxable skis. Besides, who really enjoys applying klister? ;) (first step: shave your cat...)

Tim
 
David Metsky said:
Yesterday, when I (on my waxable skis) was cruising past all my skiing partners (on their waxless skis) going downhill, they were asking the reverse. I waxed once before we headed out and had no problem keeping up on the uphills. And I was glide king for the day.
I just caught this thread and have only read from this post on. I like to use skis as a peakbagging tool. Ie. for the approach. On trails that have been too steep for waxless skis I have done much better with a long pocket of pretty gummy purple or red wax.
But I have encountered problems with the waxing conditions changing as I gain elevation. I am planning on getting new ski gear to replace my very skinny skis but haven't decided whether to go with waxless skis or not but I was thinking of getting skins. I even saw a short and fat ski with a skin bonded permanently onto the base.

A proper gliding wax job will save many strides. If one skis 10 miles RT to the base of the Sewards and the wax job gives an extra 6 inches of glide per stride...
 
bikehikeskifish said:
When you first purchase a new pair of skis, or have them ground, you should iron in several (3-4) applications of a relatively soft wax, like CH10 or STAR yellow, scrape and brush between, just to saturate and protect the bases. The last application can be 'hot-scraped' (scrape after solidification but before the ski cools) which will put out any dirt or impurities in the ski. Then let it set, scrape, bronze brush the heck out of it to get as much wax out as possible.

Now you're ready to do the wax of the day.
This requires advanced skills and special equipment to do and only a small number of very serious skiers (and racers) do this. Hot waxing a "waxless" (pattern) base also means that you will have to spend hours carefully scraping the wax out of the pattern. (Been there, done that...) Most users of waxless skis to not have adequate incentive, equipment, or knowledge to do this.

In general any halfway appropriate wax applied by any of a variety of means will help to protect the bases and improve glide of a waxless ski.

The products that I mentioned earlier (Swix F4 (paste) and Maxiglide) simply require wiping on, letting dry, and buffing. Easily applied to both the glide and kick zones.

Field waxing of a waxable (classical) ski is also generally pretty simple--crayon the (hard) wax* on the bottom and smooth it with a cork** ***. If you need to change the wax (either you chose the wrong wax or the snow conditions changed) you can put a softer wax over a harder wax or scrape the old (softer) wax off and then apply the new (harder) wax. All very easy for a relatively cold and dry snow. (If the snow is too wet, the easy way out is to reach for your waxless skis. You can also use klisters (soft, gooey, messy stuff).

All you need are the waxes, a synthetic cork, and a plastic scraper for waxing with the hard waxes. http://www.rei.com/product/454021


* The waxes are color coded and the instructions on the packages tell you which wax to use for which temperature ranges. If after skiing 100yds or so your ski is still too slippery, put on a softer wax and if the ski doesn't glide well enough, put on a harder wax.

** This is good enough for a recreational skier--racers spend 99% of their effort waxing for the last 1% of speed.

*** If you wish, you can use a grippy (softer) wax in the grip zone (~center third of the ski) and slippery (harder) waxes on the tip and tail thirds of the ski (the glide zone).

Doug
 
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Sorry I was not clear -- I was referring to waxable skis only -- not waxless / pattern skis. The hot wax / iron technique will always provide better waxing than corking will, and several applications while the ski is brand new will go a long way towards protecting the bases.

Tim
 
bikehikeskifish said:
Sorry I was not clear -- I was referring to waxable skis only -- not waxless / pattern skis. The hot wax / iron technique will always provide better waxing than corking will, and several applications while the ski is brand new will go a long way towards protecting the bases.
True, but corks are much lighter to carry than a long cord and a waxing iron... :)

Cheaper, too.

Doug
 
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