Climber Who Left Partner Cited for Disorderly Conduct

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Craig

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This is an odd one.

Grand Teton National Park rangers finalized an investigation stemming from a search and rescue response in August that was initiated by the activation of a SPOT rescue locator. Dave Shade, 33, from Missoula, Montana was issued a citation because his actions that day created a hazardous situation during a late-hour rescue operation to retrieve his stranded climbing partner, Jesse Selwyn of Florence, Michigan. Shade was charged with disorderly conduct.

On Friday, August 19, Shade and Selwyn intended to climb the Black Ice Couloir on the northwest side of the Grand Teton; however, the two climbers could not find the entrance to the couloir and got off route, ending up on the Grandstand. After an extended discussion about how to proceed, Selwyn informed Shade that he felt he was unable to continue. Selwyn said that he believed he would become injured or die if he attempted to retrace the route they had come. He then told Shade that he was going to call for a rescue by activating the SPOT rescue locator that he was carrying. Until that time, Shade did not know that Selwyn was carrying the device.

Selwyn then activated the device and Grand Teton National Park Rangers were notified. After rangers hovered over the scene in a Teton Interagency helicopter and Selwyn signaled that he desired a rescue, Shade told Selwyn that he (Shade) did not need to be rescued. Further discussion ensued and ultimately, Shade left with the party's climbing rope, made four rappels and then began to retrace his route to the Valhalla Traverse. Shade made this decision before confirming that rangers were indeed going to return to rescue Selwyn.

The citation was issued because Shade assumed a rescue would occur and left his partner, taking their only climbing rope. Shade's decision created a hazardous condition for Selwyn, since at this point there was no guarantee of rescue. Selwyn was reached by Rangers that night, and was extracted via short-haul with darkness imminently approaching.

So one guy gets scared and wants to get beamed up. His partner is all set and wants to backtrack down (and probably continue with the climb?).

I wouldn't have left the scared dude but is this really disorderly conduct? There are no injuries here.
 
Well, at this point we can only speculate as to what was in Shade's mind.

And, since this is VFtT, and we specialize in speculation, often unfounded, I'll begin - ;)

Perhaps Shade was concerned he'd be charged for a rescue and didn't/couldn't afford that cost.

Edit - and I agree - disorderly conduct is odd charge. Reckless endangerment might be more appropriate. I'm not an attorney, nor ever will be one.
 
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This is an odd one.



So one guy gets scared and wants to get beamed up. His partner is all set and wants to backtrack down (and probably continue with the climb?).

I wouldn't have left the scared dude but is this really disorderly conduct? There are no injuries here.

It would seem that the point of the National Park Rangers is that you can't consider a person rescued until he is rescued and in taking the rope Shade left Selwyn in a helpless position.

However, as Kevin said we can only speculate on what was on Shade's mind and I would add we can only speculate on what was on Selwyn's mind.

Was Selwyn asking his friend not to leave him or did he tell him that if he was going to get down before dark he'd better get going?

The fact that charges were made might lead one to believe that Selwyn told his rescuers that his friend had bailed on him. But we don't know that. The rule is you don't leave your partner. It's easy to pass judgment here but we just don't know all the details.

IMO about all we can do right now is take in the facts that we have been given and wait for more details before passing judgment.

Also, maybe something will come out that would justify the use of the term "disorderly conduct" (did they fight over the rope?) but without those details it does sound strange.
 
you don't leave your partner
That's hard to get away from. Don't think I could do it.

I suppose, if I thought he was wimping out in a relatively benign situation, and I knew the Rangers had been notified and had visually ID'd his location, AND if I thought _I_ might be charged thousands of dollars for rescue costs if I stuck around, I might be tempted to get out of Dodge.

Still, you don't leave your partner.
 
I don't know, if I was climbing Mt Marcy with someone and they whipped out a spot and called for a rescue without my consent (at Indian Falls for example) because they did want to continue I might ditch them (assuming they were not sick or injured) It may have seemed that way to Shade. To me the situations are very different due to the technical terrain and no marked trail, but trying to see things through Shade's eyes I come up with the above analogy. Maybe an Adirondack slide would be a better analogy like the Colden Dike or Nippletop slide ? Not enough info me to pass judgement either way.
 
Ahhhh... the brotherhood of the rope!

Well, I used to beat the pud out of my little brother when we were younger... :rolleyes:

...which is what I would do to my...ahem..."partner" who bailed on me and took the flippin' rope! :mad:


I don't care if Shade didn't need/want to be rescued and/or could self-evac -- unless the rangers had already plucked Selwyn from the cliff (or were actively in the process of doing so), IMO it's inexcusable for Shade to bugger off, taking their lifeline in the process.

Grrrr!
 
I'll bet there was one big, nasty argument going on. Wouldn't have wanted to be a fly on that wall.

On the other hand, Shade was from Missoula, Montana. A friend of mine has a bumper sticker on her car that reads: Keep Missoula Weird. Maybe if you are from Missoula you are expected to act strangely.
 
This is the sited violation.

(a) A person commits disorderly conduct when, with intent to cause public alarm, nuisance, jeopardy or violence, or knowingly or recklessly creating a risk thereof, such person commits any of the following prohibited acts:
(4) Creates or maintains a hazardous or physically offensive condition.
 
I always like to hear all side before passing judgment on someone. But, the police surely heard Shade's side of the argument before charging him. Unfortunately partner abandonment is nothing new.

Last year while at the top of Kaaterskill Falls I came upon an older gentleman who was clearly physically and emotionally distressed. I asked him what was wrong. He explained to me that he just had open heart surgery couple weeks prior. His doctor had told him that he could do some gentle walking. His friend convinced him that they should do the hike to the base of Kaaterskill Falls from Rt 23a. Once at the base, the guy then got him to walk up the steep trail to the top, by telling him that it was easy. Near the top, the guy got impatient because he was physically distressed, so he abandon him. Once on top he couldn't move any further. Since my car was on top of the Falls I drove him to the bottom. Once I got the guy back to the RVW PA he got in his car and drove back to NJ. I guess if you are going to abandon your friend, you better have the keys to the car.

In 2001 we were hiking the Grinnell Glaicer Trail at Glacier National Park. The best way to do the hike is to take two boats to the TH. Or, if you are cheap, you can hike an extra miles to the TH and back. On the way back down from the glacier we ran into an 8 year girl who was hysterical. Seems her father was too cheap to pay for the boat rides and they hiked the lake shores to the TH. Part way across the second lake, her father decided that his daughter was going too slow. So, he abandon her. About 1/2 mile later the girl was surrounded by grizzly bears. For some odd reason they didn't bother her. Her father was also too cheap to buy her bear spray. We took her down to the boat and got her on the boat back to the hotel.

There is nothing about the issues between Shade and Selwyn that would surprise me. Some people just exercise poor judgment and morals.
 
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tner abandonment is nothing new.

Last year while at the top of Kaaterskill Falls I came upon an older gentleman who was clearly physically and emotionally distressed. I asked him what was wrong. He explained to me that he just had open heart surgery couple weeks prior. His doctor had told him that he could do some gentle walking. His friend convinced him that they should do the hike to the base of Kaaterskill Falls from Rt 23a. Once at the base, the guy then got him to walk up the steep trail to the top, by telling him that it was easy. Near the top, the guy got impatient because he was physically distressed, so he abandon him. Once on top he couldn't move any further. Since my car was on top of the Falls I drove him to the bottom. Once I got the guy back to the RVW PA he got in his car and drove back to NJ. I guess if you are going to abandon your friend, you better have the keys to the car.

In 2001 we were hiking the Grinnell Glaicer Trail at Glacier National Park. The best way to do the hike is to take two boats to the TH. Or, if you are cheap, you can hike an extra miles to the TH and back. On the way back down from the glacier we ran into an 8 year girl who was hysterical. Seems her father was too cheap to pay for the boat rides and they hiked the lake shores to the TH. Part way across the second lake, her father decided that his daughter was going too slow. So, he abandon her. About 1/2 mile later the girl was surrounded by grizzly bears. For some odd reason they didn't bother her. Her father was also too cheap to buy her bear spray. We took her down to the boat and got her on the boat back to the hotel.

There is nothing about the issues between Shade and Selwyn that would surprise me. Some people just exercise poor judgment and morals.

These are terrible stories but the father leaving his eight year old was hopefully prosecuted. Talk about child abandonment and endangerment. If he did this on the trail , I hate to think about what his behavior is like at home. He is one scary excuse for a father.
 
On the way back down from the glacier we ran into an 8 year girl who was hysterical. Seems her father was too cheap to pay for the boat rides and they hiked the lake shores to the TH. Part way across the second lake, her father decided that his daughter was going too slow. So, he abandon her. About 1/2 mile later the girl was surrounded by grizzly bears. For some odd reason they didn't bother her. Her father was also too cheap to buy her bear spray. .

That"s no father, that's a criminal! :mad: :mad::mad: Fed him to the grizzlies!


BTW I'd would have stayed with my partner until help arrived.
 
Personally if one climber wants to be rescued and has already called for one and the rescue is in motion and the other climber does not, I can see where a split can happen. I would hate to be rescued, I would have to be on the verge of death to even consider it. Then again, I carry no phone, no spot and leave no plans of where I am so a rescue is unlikey, thats the way I roll.
 
I just stay away from passing judgement on anyone, regardless.

Not me :eek:.

Unless my partner's dead, or darn near, and the only way I'll live is to leave, I'm in for the duration. This guy leaving was an ego driven, dick move...IMHO...There's a small chance they agreed on the action and were both okay with that, but that's not what it sounds like.
 
Near the top, the guy got impatient because he was physically distressed, so he abandon him. Once on top he couldn't move any further. Since my car was on top of the Falls I drove him to the bottom. Once I got the guy back to the RVW PA he got in his car and drove back to NJ.

Let me see if I understood your story: The guy you met who was abandonded, once helped by you back to the parking lot, got into his car and left behind the friend who had abandonded him to fend for himself re getting home? If so, wow, that's a clear response about what he thought of his once-called friend.
 
Let me see if I understood your story: The guy you met who was abandonded, once helped by you back to the parking lot, got into his car and left behind the friend who had abandonded him to fend for himself re getting home? If so, wow, that's a clear response about what he thought of his once-called friend.

Yup...Some people call it Karma.
 
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