Cooking in Your Winter Tent

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How about if you had two canisters and while one was running (and cooling), the other was being warmed inside your parka? When the running canister slows down, you shut off the stove and switch canisters?
It's amazing how quickly the canisters cool down. Between evaporative cooling, conduction from snow, and convection from ambient air, I suspect you're looking at changing the canister multiple times just to boil a few liters of water if it's cold out. Seems like a hassle to me. Not to mention, your robbing your own body of heat in order to make the stove work, which you may be disinclined to do if conditions are bad. The best solution to this problem I've seen is to keep the canister in a bowl of warm water. This water has to be refreshed occassionally, as it too cools down, but I have seen this work without THAT much trouble. In cold weather, however, you still must keep a canister in your parka in order to get it lit the first time. The stove simply won't light (in my experience) if the canister temp is around zero or below. Which means you can't make warm water in the first place to put your canister in.

The inverted canister is a good idea, particularly if it's not THAT cold, and you're only out for a single night, and you only need water for yourself.

In my opinion, the calculus quickly shifts in favor of white gas if you're looking at cold temps (below zero) and multiple days and people to cook for. The potential for fireballs with white gas stoves is way overblown in my opinion, and is not a good reason to avoid using white gas as a fuel source in the winter. Instead, become proficient in using your stove before you have to depend on it. Just like any other tool.
 
It's amazing how quickly the canisters cool down. <snip>
One advantage of cold-fuel pumped-pressurization stoves (as in many of the MSR models) is that one doesn't have to worry about heating the fuel. The cold-fuel stoves also do not risk overheating and turning into flame-throwers when the pressure-relief valve opens (as in the Svea 123, Optimus 8R, etc) or exploding (as in canister stoves).

In my opinion, the calculus quickly shifts in favor of white gas if you're looking at cold temps (below zero) and multiple days and people to cook for. The potential for fireballs with white gas stoves is way overblown in my opinion, and is not a good reason to avoid using white gas as a fuel source in the winter. Instead, become proficient in using your stove before you have to depend on it. Just like any other tool.
Agreed.
IMO, the fireballs are generally caused by over priming or trying to restart a warm (not hot) stove. (If a gas stove blows out or is shut down, restart it immediately (before the burner cools down somewhat) or wait until it is cold, prime and start. If the burner is warm but not hot enough for normal operation, the stove will flare up, same as if it hasn't been primed sufficiently.) All just part of knowing how to use a stove properly...

IMO, white gas (Coleman fuel) is the fuel of choice in the Northeastern winter. Reliable, high heat value, easy to use, and relatively safe.

Doug
 
One advantage of cold-fuel pumped-pressurization stoves (as in many of the MSR models) is that one doesn't have to worry about heating the fuel. The cold-fuel stoves also do not risk overheating and turning into flame-throwers when the pressure-relief valve opens (as in the Svea 123, Optimus 8R, etc) or exploding (as in canister stoves).
Doug

I love my SVEA. It does have one major advantage relative to the pump pressure systems. It's much simpler design means fewer parts that can leak or break, the Svea 123R does not require a field repair kit.

I haven't witnessed the flame thrower effect but I do not add a external wind screen [the SVEA already has one]. I am very aware of where the fill cap/relief valve is pointed when I set-up.

For me, the biggest drawback of the SVEA is the limited volumne of the fuel reservior. When the fuel reservior is empty, I have to refill it with white gas, which has the potential to cause a "cold burn" in the winter.
 
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Generally speaking, since you're venturing into winter camping for the first time, while getting cooking in your tent tips from people with years of expereince is good, sticking to the basic rule of DON'T EVER DO IT, probably is the best advice.

Can it be done without mishap, sure by people with years of experience. Trying this for the first time 10 miles from your car on a night so cold you've decided to cook in your tent, shouldn't be your first time. Doing it at home or at least close to car the first few times may be a good idea. Just in case you melt or burn your tent to the ground, the trip to the car is doable. (The first few times, maybe without all your gear in the tent so an unfortunate retreat isn't done in just your base layer. :rolleyes:)

Going when the snow is real deep so you could dig out a kitchen is great advice.

We're assuming you've done a lot of camping if you're making the jump to winter camping right? Never cooked in your tent in a pouring rain storm? (That might be harder for venting)

Have you taken the AMC or ADK winter skills course? As is the case in winter hiking, the margin of error is much thinner in winter, you usually can make a few mistakes in summer, heck you could burn your tent down & as long as you got out, you'd likely survive the night just walking around doing jumping jacks for warmth if you had too. A wet sleeping bag, not comfy if summer but probably not potentially deadly.

Hey, maybe you've got camping down pat in the worse of the three season weather conditions, in that case, sorry for pointing out the basics. But I'd rather assume that then think you can read DougPaul's suggestions and then be DougPaul. (I can't read it & be DougPaul or Hikerbrian or lawn sale) Going with people with years of winter camping experience & seeing it done would be a great idea.
 
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