Ice Axe Length

[giggy]

I mostly use leashes on a mountaineering axe to anchor myself to the mountain if resting or whatever. If I do have a harness on - I do what cbcbd does - clip into to the harness.

I climbed Rainier switching from hand to hand and lets just say that was tedious. Now - it gets clipped.

If your falling on an controllable slide down steep snow - you got bigger problems than losing your axe.

 

[DougPaul]

Other uses of a leash:
* If they are too long, you can trip or become tangled in them
* Some leashes can come between an axe point and the ice/snow when placing the point in the ice/snow. Proper sizing and technique can help here.
* If you fall, the leash keeps the axe points close enough to injure you.
Oops--I guess those are cons...

Basically, I use a leash when I am in a place such that if I drop the axe, I will lose it and when ice climbing to take the weight off my hands. Otherwise, the lease is just a nuisance.

Much of this was covered in the thread "Ice axe technique" http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=15140. The thread also includes my design for a leash good for both technical and non-technical use.

Doug

 

[Daubie]

Great info as usual from you guys. Thanks for the link DougPaul. Also good stuff!

Now its time to move this show north a couple of hundred miles. As you know, its the last weekend to bag some winter peaks! See you on the trail. Thx.

 

[sierra]

2 more cents from me if I may. Leashes are the way to go, I tried the cord to my waste route and found the tangling of the cord to much of a hassle. Poles verses an axe, if I had a wooden nickle for every jabroney Ive seen on steep snow bending a trecking pole trying to use it like an ice axe, well I guess I would just have alot of wooden nickles but anywho. Bottom line if your a true, I mean true mountain climber, you will own an ice axe, dont get me wrong, I love mee trecking poles, their sleek, give me 4 legs and the stability of a 4 wheel drive, BUT on steep snow, aka lions head winter route, King ravine and such, I have a whole umbrella can full of sharp big boy ice axes.
P.S. The girls will fawn all over you when they see that axe.

 

[Pete_Hickey]

I like a long axe with a leash. The reason? When I use my axe (which isn't often), I put the pole in my pack, and use the axe instead. I use it as a pole with additional features. I'm not using the leash when I'm using the axe as a non-pole.

But that's me.

 

[bignslow]

Here's a neat alternative for the people that can't decide between an ice ax and a trekking pole:
http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=433

 

[DougPaul]

Here's a neat alternative for the people that can't decide between an ice ax and a trekking pole:
http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=433

This has been pointed out before.

IMO, inferior for use as either an axe or a pole.

Doug

 

[Kevin Rooney]

This has been pointed out before.

IMO, inferior for use as either an axe or a pole.

Doug

Yes, I tend to agree. I was surprised to see that it did pass safety certification, but even so - I just wouldn't trust the tip. Using an axe as a probe is tiring, and even with the basket off, it won't slip cleanly thru the snow. You want as little friction as possible.

And, on a glissade - my concern would be the tip would snap quickly when it's used as a brake.

Another model - I think it's called the Whippet, is sometimes mentioned. I think it's a bit gimmicky as well.

 

[DougPaul]

Another model - I think it's called the Whippet, is sometimes mentioned. I think it's a bit gimmicky as well.

A whippet is a ski pole with a built-in pick on the handle for self-arrest when skiing. I think of it as an add-on to a pole rather than a substitute for an axe.

http://www.backcountry.com/store/BLD1150/Black-Diamond-Whippet-Self-Arrest-Ski-Pole.html

Doug

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Any time you have one tool masquerading as two tools, it's not optimum for either use. Still, it may be an acceptable compromise.

Tim

 

[Kevin Rooney]

Any time you have one tool masquerading as two tools, it's not optimum for either use. Still, it may be an acceptable compromise.

Tim

Tim - with all due respect - this is one compromise that could kill you. Just like you wouldn't repel of a cliff with a frayed rope, or clip in using a carabiner you bought at Home Depot, use a real ice axe.

 

[DougPaul]

Tim - with all due respect - this is one compromise that could kill you. Just like you wouldn't repel of a cliff with a frayed rope, or clip in using a carabiner you bought at Home Depot, use a real ice axe.

Agreed...

Except that I wouldn't rappel (abseil in British) with a frayed rope.

Doug

 

[Kevin Rooney]

I guess I should have proofread that one a bit better, Doug. With spelling and fractured sentences like that, I could get a job as a presidential speech writer in a heartbeat ...

 

[DougPaul]

I guess I should have proofread that one a bit better, Doug. With spelling and fractured sentences like that, I could get a job as a presidential speech writer in a heartbeat ...

Thats all right--a high school English teacher would have a coronary if he tried to correct these forums...

However, in this case repel and rappel have rather different meanings.

And I'm rather "distypic"* myself. I have to proofread everything I type or it may not make much sense...

Doug

* PS as long as I am coining words, distypic=dis-type-ic.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Tim - with all due respect - this is one compromise that could kill you. Just like you wouldn't repel of a cliff with a frayed rope, or clip in using a carabiner you bought at Home Depot, use a real ice axe.

Good point. Note that I didn't specifically say the ice axe -- hiking pole was an acceptable compromise. In fact, I was making a general statement to the opposite. If you buy a combination high-def TV and espresso machine, it's probably not very good at either. The more-specialized the tool, the less good idea it would be to combine it with another.

OTOH, my winter cycling clothes and ski stuff together have been fine for winter hiking.

Tim