MSR WhisperLite Tips?

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Rick said:
As for the WL, if you have the International model you can use Regular unleaded gas or white gas.
I suggest that you stick to Coleman Fuel, MSR SuperFuel, etc or equivalent if at all possible. It will burn cleaner than the engine fuels and help to keep the stove from clogging. Also fewer nasties to inhale...

Butane lighters with a very rare backup from a match have always worked for me.

Doug
 
Rick said:
Bill, unless it is a toy, I wouldn't waste my money on a mag fire starter - I'd instead buy a couple of 500-ct boxes of strike-anywheres and/or a couple of new BIC lighters. (and if you're like me, and have a propensity for toys that seem to have great ideas behind them, you probably have a drawer full of stuff already)


I recently started using a flint to start my WL. My thought was that I could get good enough at lighting a fire that I would no longer need to carry a lighter or matches (yeah right :rolleyes: ). But I will say the flint works well for lighting my stove. I was taught to never light a store with another stove (the lighter) for safety reasons.

As for operating the thing, it's not rocket science, it's fire, basic and primitive. The stove is very simple in how it works. You put gas in the priming pan, light it, which in turn warms the gas line coil that goes up through the burner. When that reaches the right temperature it turns the liquid fuel into a vapor which then shoots through that little pin hole and up into the burner. When that gas is in vapor form you light it and get the nice blue flame. Most other undesirable flames are caused by the stove not being hot enough yet. Take the thing apart, look at it, figure it out and then you will understand the problems you are having.

Just practice using the thing. Make coffee on it every morning for two weeks, you'll get it.
 
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Whisperlites rock and are the best, IMHO. I've used mine in all conditions and weather.
I also have an International model, and burning gasolino blanco (similar to paint thinner) in Mexico really puts out some BTU's, even at altitude.
 
One of the cold weather winter issues with a whisperlight is that the jet is relatively close to the ground and not very well shielded. If there is a lot of moisture in the air in the area of the jet, ice can form around the jet opening. The stove will continue to run but will slowly reduce its flame. It usually wont go out. To make it more interesting, there is enough residual heat in the area, that by the time someone gets the stove turned off and looks at the jet, it will have melted off.

This usually happens when, its real cold(below zero), the stove is not setup on a heat shield (old license plate works pretty well), and there is a lot of snow around, throw in a bit of snow on the bottom of the pot and it can happen.
 
Peakbagger makes a good point about using an old licence plate as a heat shield to put the stove on in the winter. It gives you a good base and it is fairly light.
 
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BillK said:
Greetings,
I just recently purchased my first stove, an MSR WhisperLite. I bought it primarily for emergencies, such as melting snow to stay hydrated in the event that I'm stuck on a mountain for an extended period of time. I also plan to use it to cook soup, hot cocoa, etc. to keep warm on cold days. The instructions sound pretty straight forward, but I've been told that it takes practice to know when the stove has been properly primed, and when to re-open the pump valve. The instruction manual is very vague in stating "wait for the preheat flame to reduce in size". Can anyone recommend any tips
based on your experience?

Thanks,
- Bill

Bill, I have had no problems with my whisperlite, although I have not used it in all conditions (e.g., raging blizzard). It's pretty simple to use. Probably the best tip I can give you is to have someone who has used the stove walk you through the process. Much easier than reading instructions which may or may not be that clear.
 
WL Tips...

Place it on an unoccupied shelf in your basement and leave it there.....or sell it on ebay...then look for a used or older model XGK.

I wouldn't want to depend on a WL for emergnency situations....especially melting snow for survival....
 
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I just sold a WLI on Ebay for $60, but it included a bottle. I have a Dragonfly, so there was no need for the WL, and it was just a spare anyway.

I find that will all my manual priming stoves, 20 pumps is enough for just about anything and it won't over pressurize the pump.
 
DougPaul said:
OK in summer, but most alcohol stoves are marginal to useless in cold weather.

Doug

Sorry, I totally disagree with this. Before purchasing my WhisperLite I used a homemade alcohol stove all the time. I took it on many winter trips, and at times it was the only stove out of 5 or 6 different types that would light (at temps below zero). The other stoves are a different story.

I have found that it can be difficult to get the alcohol to light, which I believe is due to less evaporation, as it is the vapors that burn not the liquid itself. This problem is easily solved by holding a match over the alcohol for a minute or two to warm it up. Then it lights, and stays lit, just fine. If going on a long winter trip with other gas stoves, I would be inclined to bring an alcohol one as back up.
 
Relight

I've had a whisperlite for about 9 years and it never failed me. You can let that flame go out then light it again while you turn the gas back on ever so slowly. Works every time. To do the "transfer the flame method" does take practice. But in the mean time the "relighting method" works great. Enjoy.
 
Also, for either fuel, RUG or White gas, neither seems to light very well at temps lower than minus 20, due to the reduced fumes/vapor they give off.
I have dropped lit matches into the primer cup only to have them go out when they hit the cold fuel. :)
What does one use for those truly frigid trips? Say you wake up and it's minus 30. Do you switch fuels? Sleep with your fuel? Switch to wood? Book a motel room?
 
Fen,
I hold my lighter over the small pool of gas in the primer cup until it heats up enough to give off fumes (sometimes several seconds), then you'll see the weak feeble bluish yellow flame start to grow as the fuel heats up - as the flames grows you can prime your stove. As I understand, the liquid gas doesn't burn, it is the vapor or fumes that burn. (DougPaul where are you??) :D
We have changed plans in the past and hightailed it out after several nights of -20 weather. It is no longer fun.
 
Fen said:
What does one use for those truly frigid trips? Say you wake up and it's minus 30. Do you switch fuels? Sleep with your fuel? Switch to wood? Book a motel room?
I have used Coleman Fuel at -20F without difficulty. I most likely lit it with a butane lighter warmed in my pocket. (IMO, you should be using Coleman fuel or equivalent in your gasoline stove at any temp.)

Colder fuels just have a lower vapor pressure which makes them harder to light (and less explosive...). You just have to apply a steady heat (flame) to the top to get them to light. Or you could use a wick--a small piece of crumpled paper big enough to stick above the surface of the fuel in the priming cup should do the job. (Some stoves just have a blotter pad under the burner which acts as a wick--just wet it with fuel and light.)


BTW, the term "white gas" is ambiguous. In certain circles, it is a motor fuel with no anti-knock additives.

I had to Google "RUG" to find out what it meant... (regular unleaded gasoline). Not a good fuel for a cooking stove--it contains additives for use in motors. It will heat your food, but will also give of vapors that you should not be breathing...

And yes, it is the fuel vapor that burns, not the liquid. The whole point of priming a stove is to heat up metal plumbing so that it vaporizes the fuel before it exits the nozzle. The large yellow flames from an incompletely primed stove are the result of liquid fuel squirting out the nozzle. (The liquid vaporizes outside the stove plumbing and burns poorly giving the yellow flame.)

Lots of info on stove fuels can be found in "International Fuel Names" (used to be "Fuel Name FAQ"): http://panzer1.brinkster.net/papo-art/fuel/

Doug
 
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DougPaul said:
..."RUG" ... (regular unleaded gasoline). Not a good fuel for a cooking stove--it contains additives for use in motors. It will heat your food, but will also give of vapors that you should not be breathing...
If you need convincing, do the following experiment.

Fill up your car at a self serve gas station. Be carefull not to spill any gas on your hands. 15 minutes later smell your hands.

Now, pour a teaspoon of coleman feul on you hand. (Note: it is not advisable to be smoking when you do this). Shake it off, and smell your hands.

Now.... which smell would you rather be breathing, and eating food cooked with it?
 
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