Mt Blanc - Hard Decision - Appreciate Input

[Abster]

I have been struggling over a decision recently and just realized that maybe I don’t have to think of all the variables myself.

Decision: I have the fine opportunity to climb Mt Blanc (guided) this summer, but know it is more technical than probably anything I have done before. The key issue here is that in my mid-20’s I became afraid of heights and although I have been working to overcome it, it is still a potential big issue if I do this climb – from any side.

I would likely do a route that has a ridge walk that is approx. 2ft wide with sheer cliffs on either side that takes about 20 mins to get through. Once that is over, the rest of the climb seems more doable.

It is the chance of a lifetime – if I can make the 20 min. ridge walk.

The price is fairly steep so I don’t want to sign-up only to wimp-out on the mountain.

I would appreciate some perspectives and insight here – even from the vertical studs like Giggy and cbcbd.

Thanks.

Hanna

 

[Peakbagr]

This is a really hard one. Look at all the wonderful hiking you've already done.
If you set out to do this, you're going against your natural instincts. Instead of this being a build up to a lot of fun, might it be spoiled by lots of anxiety over whether you'll fail?
Maybe pick an alternative destination without the exposure that freaks you out?

 

[Papa Bear]

I have been struggling over a decision recently and just realized that maybe I don’t have to think of all the variables myself.

Decision: I have the fine opportunity to climb Mt Blanc (guided) this summer, but know it is more technical than probably anything I have done before. The key issue here is that in my mid-20’s I became afraid of heights and although I have been working to overcome it, it is still a potential big issue if I do this climb – from any side.

I would likely do a route that has a ridge walk that is approx. 2ft wide with sheer cliffs on either side that takes about 20 mins to get through. Once that is over, the rest of the climb seems more doable.

It is the chance of a lifetime – if I can make the 20 min. ridge walk.

The price is fairly steep so I don’t want to sign-up only to wimp-out on the mountain.

I would appreciate some perspectives and insight here – even from the vertical studs like Giggy and cbcbd.

Thanks.

Hanna

The time frame is not conducive for this but ideally you need to desensitize yourself (I guess you have been working on doing just that). Start with Air Line and then Katahdin's Knife edge and do them back and forth. This takes a lot of time. If you had another year you could hit that one in Colodado that the guy who just finished skiing them did to finish on. Maybe you could rig up something artificial - like a balance beam.

 

[blacklab2020]

The real question is how afraid of heights are you.

I have been rockclimbing a long time 13+years and for every single one of those years I have been afraid of heights.

I have lead long backcountry routes that are 5.9+ and over a thousand feet long, but I was on a rope... The fact that I was on a rope made all the difference for me. However, some of these peaks there were some fairly exposed class 3-4 terrain that had a 5000-6000 foot drop only a few feet away. The terrain was very easy to climb, just super exposed.

In those cases where we didnt rope up on that terrain I just had to trust in myself and my climbing ability and found that I was suprisingly comfortable if I just looked at where I was going. If I wanted to enjoy the view, I might as well be on a rope

I am pretty terrified of edges, especially when other people are near them, but I try and reason myself past all that.

Anyway, I think that you should absolutely go for Blanc, if you can stay composed. If your fear makes you lock up it may be a problem, that you will have to work up to.

Know your crevase skills. This is a serious mountain, even more so than rainier.

Good Luck,


EDIT: All the reasoning aside above: It will likely take some mental preparation if possible (constantly visualizing the situation, climbing knifes edge (as mentioned) is probably one of the closest things distance wise. Walk across trees over creeks/rives and imagine the drop is much higher and its windy out.) Mental preparation is certainly important here among many other factors.

 

[iceNsnow]

Do it!

I would attempt to get as much prep time on vertical as possible between not and then, but go for it!

It is reasonable to have a fear of falling from heights, but when you are protected it is not reasonable. Maybe you could ask to be roped up? After all you are paying big bucks and it is only 20mins of extra effort for a world of comfort to you!

It is a life changing adventure and always good to step out of your comfort zone. Don't miss a chance to grow! I'm sure they will accommodate you since it is such a small portion of the route.

I hope the best for you!!!

 

[DougPaul]

Hanna,

Sounds like quite an opportunity!

You might get some instruction in basic rock climbing. (Simple top-roping should be adequate.) This will teach you basic rope handling, basic moving with a rope on, and get you used to climbing on steep terrain.

Climbing is very psychological--it requires mental focus to ignore your fear (of heights and falling) while you climb as if you were not afraid. Top roping is a good way to develop this mind control. Even as one who has not climbed in years (and who always had a healthy fear of heights) I have been able to kick in this mental focus when needed (for instance on Precipice Tr in Acadia and Angel's Landing in Zion).

I'll be jealous if you go...

Doug

 

[blacklab2020]

Ill be way jealous too...

 

[halfmoon]

Papa Bear is spot on. The key is to desensitize yourself to heights over a long period. I too used to be very scared of heights, I learned this when I started rock climbing. However, this type of fear is easily overcome, but unfortunately, over a long period of time. Me personally, no matter how scared I happened to be of heights, I would not miss the chance to climb Mt. Blanc. I was in Chamonix a few years ago, and the scenery is amazing. If you don't climb you will find many other things that will make you happy in the Chamonix area.

 

[kmorgan]

I concur with what everyone has been saying so far. I too am one who in my youth was scared to death of heights. So scared that I would be in a panic state and sweating just contemplating being up on a structure more than 5 feet off the ground. (10 feet in the air looking down seemed like 100!)

When I was in the Navy I was an electronics tech. and worked on radar and communications gear. Part of the job required climbing ships masts with antennae mounted to them. Sometimes in rough seas. After years of being exposed to these situations I became gradually desensitized and eventually learned to love high places.

It really is all in your head, and not looking down is REALLY good advice when in precarious circumstances.

I hope you make the trip, it sounds awesome!

Best of luck,
Kevin

 

[Peakbagr]

All good longer-term advice. The problem is that Abster doesn't have a long time to accomplish the desensitizing.
Really tough call.

 

[giggy]

first off - def not a vertical stud or even close, I dabble in some mountaineering - mostly steep snow, some easy ice. There are plenty of people here with much more time and grade on this type of stuff than I will likely ever have.

that being said -

I would go - you have to remember, anytime spent on a great mountain like that is time well spent, you will be a with w/ a guide, which takes some of the pressure off you. Go with a goal in mind and if you get to 12 13k - its a success. And what you will prolly learn will serve you well on any future endevours. If it gets sketchy for you - you turn around. who cares, you will see stuff on mount blanc that most folks will never see in their lifetime.

the guides have this stuff dialed in, my guess is you will short roped on that ridge to one of them - I can gaureentee you, people with less exp that you have been up it. Those guys likely are top notch - make sure the guides services is good, known, certified, etc.. if they are (my guess is they are), I think the risk is very low for you. If they feel your having issues, they will turn you around prior. Talk to them, they more about theat peak and what it takes than anyone here. If you were planning to go unguided, then I think things would be different.

all this being said, if you get to the part that worries you - and aren't feeling it - there is no shame in turning back - guide or no guide. By going with the guide, I think you can go a little out of your comfort zone and still be safe - thats why guides exist.

getting half way up mount blanc blows away anything here NE, (my opinion) - look at at it that way.

go for it - you will regret it if you don't.

 

[Mad Townie]

The fact that I was on a rope made all the difference for me.

I get really nervous standing near the edge of a roof one story above the ground, yet I can climb Cathedral ledge, and I can lead stuff that's near my maximum seconding ability (none of that is very extreme, BTW).

The key for me, as blacklab2020 said, is being roped in. For some reason the rope and anchor, even when I've placed it, makes the difference. My mind seems to take comfort in the fact that I can't fall far, regardless of what happens. (I don't consider the anchor failing, that's not an option.)

So if you're roped to a skilled and experienced guide, and if you react the way I do, you'll probably be fine.

Now, after all that good advice, will you take me with you? I LOVE Chamonix!!!!!

 

[DougPaul]

The fact that I was on a rope made all the difference for me.

The key for me, as blacklab2020 said, is being roped in.

This change in mindset is, IMO, learned by practice.

I have made difficult (for me) moves leading the first 15-20 ft before I had any pro in. Wouldn't have done it without the rope... (which of course offered no protection until I placed pro and clipped in).

I can also remember leading a climb where one goes abruptly from vertical terrain to a flat finishing ledge. No fear while (roped) climbing or while tied-in on the ledge, but scarey after taking the rope off and looking over the edge.

This is why I suggested that Abster get some training in basic rock climbing--she will learn the mental focus necessary to turn off (potentially paralyzing or at least interfering) fear and enjoy the climb.

So if you're roped to a skilled and experienced guide, and if you react the way I do, you'll probably be fine.

Taking beginners (or those not skilled enough to do the climb on their own) is bread and butter for the professional guides. And if they climb in a group (several guides + clients) or there are other guides nearby and someone gets into trouble, the rescue forces are right there.

I rather suspect that Mt Blanc is to the Chamonix area as Mt Washingtion is to the White Mtn area--everybody has heard of it and wants to climb it whether they are ready or not... In both cases, professional guides help to fill the gap.

Doug

 

[jrbren]

My thoughts :

1.) You are in your 20's, do not wory about "chance of a lifetime", you will have a chance every summer for the next 30-40 years we hope. The mountain nor the guide services are going anywhere.

2.) I am also afraid of height gradients to the point I cannot rock climb outside without freezing up about 30' up the wall (I have no problem doing the gym walls which are 30'-40' high). I have chickened out of a couple of great climbs due to this, St. Julien in the Canockies and Lobuche East in Nepal. I would really like to lick this. I would love to be able to climb Assiniboine some day.

3.) Air Line does not get it done (if we are referring to the trail up Adams from Appalachia, just is not that scary.) The best hiking trails in the east for this are Colden Dike(not a maintained trail but is really a trail) and Huntington Ravine. The west face of Saddleback in the ADKs is good too but is a long way in there and the exposed section is pretty short. Even those do not scare me like the terrain that turned me back mentioned above.

4.) I agree with Doug Paul, rock climb, rock climb, and then when done with that, rock climb somemore. Take a class or get chummy with a climber. They are often looking for someone to belay them, which requires minimal training.
Question: Could you trust your equipment enough to lean back in your harness and get lowered down a 30'-40' cliff ? That is sort of a litmus test of your fears & trust of your equipment. No skill required whatsoever for this, just trust in your setup.

Blanc looks like super trip. I would like to go there someday, I few other trips are in my queue first though, so will be at least several years for me.

My 2 cents. Good luck.

 

[Tuco]

If it were me and I wasn't sure I would not plan on going. Too much time and money at stake- plus what happens if you get up there and you have a problem. Is there a chance you'd put yourself at risk if you froze up along the way? What happens if you don't go across when up there? Will they send you back alone or take a guide away from the rest of the group? If you can turn around and go back safely then I would consider going. If you have time to work on it before making a decision then that sounds like the thing to do.

Hope you go and have a great time. I don't want to come off negative but these are some of the other things to consider.

 

[jrbren]

Tuco, Good points. I have done several guided mountain climbs and in all cases when you decide to turn around they will insist on having a guide stay with you to walk you back down, or they will make you stay put if the weather is good and there are not enough guides to walk you to the nearest camp or safe spot. They will only let you stop at a safe place. I went with New Zealand outfit to Nepal and I think the were afraid of me as an American (I am sort of kidding), as Americans are world famous for being "sue happy" (that I am not kidding about). But definately Abster should ask that question of her guide service (I do not know who she is going with). For what is worth, this guide service, whom I have never travelled with, but I love their website, considers Mt Blanc doable by Novices after a week of introductory Mountaineering training:
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/course/itinerary/alps+intro.html
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/course/itinerary/alps+intro+mb+ext.html
Could be a good option if your financial means allow it.

Edited to add you should have all the skills outlined in the intro course before taking on Mt Blanc. That is how I would interpret this anyway.

Cheers

 

[Abster]

Thanks!

Thanks All for your input! It could go a few ways. Since I don't have to give them an answer immediately, I think I will try to get some beginner rock climbing in and try to get out on more exposed terrain. Even if I don’t end up doing Mt Blanc, I’m sure the rock climbing experience would be useful.

In the meantime I will talk to the guide company and be sure they understand the situation and know how to effectively handle anything that may happen.

I don’t like to make decisions based on fear – even though this one I believe is justified as people do get hurt/die on Mt Blanc. If the prep exercises don’t relieve my fear than I may just opt out, but knowing I tried.

Thanks jrbren, but I will be 37 next month! Man, does time fly! (I’m better all around now than in my 20’s!)

I’ll be sure to post a trip report, but will probably be concentrating too hard to take pics of the crazy stuff!

Thanks again for your support and encouragement!

 

[sardog1]

In your circumstance, I would suggest that a psychologist experienced in treating acrophobia could provide a solution, within the time frame you have described. You might try looking for a sports psychologist who climbs, or at least one who has experience in working with climbers, gymnasts, utility workers, etc. You are not alone -- lots of people have an issue with heights. I'm pretty confident that there are psychologists in your area with experience in treating it successfully.

 

[SherpaKroto]

Hannah,
Two questions:
1) Years from now, will you be more disappointed in yourself if you fail, or if you never try?
2) Refer to question #1

Look at it this way, like Warren Miller always says: do it now because next year you'll be one year older! It's not so much that you still have plenty of time to do it should you not do it now. It's more about the lifetime of opportunities that could open for you! You have nothing to lose - go for it!

 

[Tuco]

In your circumstance, I would suggest that a psychologist experienced in treating acrophobia could provide a solution, within the time frame you have described. You might try looking for a sports psychologist who climbs, or at least one who has experience in working with climbers, gymnasts, utility workers, etc. You are not alone -- lots of people have an issue with heights. I'm pretty confident that there are psychologists in your area with experience in treating it successfully.

When I read your post it reminded of a dialogue I had with Sapblatt when I explained that I am afraid of going near ledges with steep drops. He told me its not fear, its common sense