Snowshoe Recommendations?

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The price falls right in line with other manufacturers top end shoes.
I paid over $300.00 about 10 years ago for my Sherpas with the Bill Prater Step-In Binding, they are still going strong. My wife's 12 series Atlas shoes also were about 269.00 about 6 years ago. If they last, the price isn't too bad. I agree they do look similar to the Northern Lights. That's the first thing I noticed.
 
a plug for atlas here too. i have the yellow ones (i think they are model 1222 or something). you can almost rock climb in these babies and they have never ever caused me any problems. very secure bindings that are easy to deal with with gloved hands too. kinda expensive but i think worth it.
 
So now I can say, "I agree with Bruno". I'm very pleased with my Atlas 12 series (but I got a good deal on price).
 
. Good question.
I assume time will tell. But for what I read into it, it seems it might have better traction, durability(no little pins to break all the time). It also is gender specific and the crampon is a new design. I also think they would be quieter. Weight does NOT seem to an advantage, due to them being about the same.

The Adirondacks and the White Mountains in my opinion have some of the harshest conditions that a snowshoe could experience anywhere in the world.
Rules, rocks, roots,blowdown, spruce traps,erosion,ice,extreme cold ect.ect. Altitude does not effect snowshoes.

If there is an afterlife?..... :rolleyes:
I would not want to come back a snowshoe sitting on the rack at the Lake Placid EMS. :eek:
For us Nor’easters who really use the shoes,
durability, and field maintainable, is the biggest concern in my eyes :cool:
 
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http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=viewall&albumID=101764446

These work fine for me. Once when bushwacking up steep terrain with ice under the snow, I was envious of those using MSRs because of the more agressive crampons, but even they were slipping. Regular crampons (without snowshoes) probably would have worked best. Anyway for average hiking on trails to avoid post-holing, these have worked fine. The toe strap does tend to slip out, so I do have to ensure the boot is well forward when I first put the shoes on.
 
rambler said:
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=viewall&albumID=101764446

These work fine for me. Once when bushwacking up steep terrain with ice under the snow, I was envious of those using MSRs because of the more agressive crampons, but even they were slipping. Regular crampons (without snowshoes) probably would have worked best. Anyway for average hiking on trails to avoid post-holing, these have worked fine. The toe strap does tend to slip out, so I do have to ensure the boot is well forward when I first put the shoes on.

Rambler,

I could not open the web site listed above.
 
It's probobly been said but here's my 2 cents. The 10 series by Atlas, by far my favorite of any I've used before. Very aggressive. Check Sierra Trading Post they usually have good deals on these.
 
peak_bgr said:
It's probobly been said but here's my 2 cents. The 10 series by Atlas, by far my favorite of any I've used before. Very aggressive. Check Sierra Trading Post they usually have good deals on these.

I agree with peak_bgr...(must be something in the name ;) )

I've been using my 1233s for about 4 years and love them. They were kind of expensive, but worth it.

spencer
 
Johnnycakes said:
Repair kit should include:
-1 or 2 compression straps (30" or 36")
-4 heavy duty nylon zip ties
-duct tape (15')
-6 feet of nylon cord
-2 extra Cleavis pins (if you have MSR snowshoes)
-2 small bolts and wing nuts (for repairing popped rivets)

I have used the kit above to repair five people's snowshoes in just two winter hiking seasons.
I googled cleavis and snowshoe and came up with exactly one hit: this thread. Just what is a cleavis pin? That part under your foot or the little pins that hold the part under your foot to the frame?
 
A clevis pin is the kind of pin that attaches a pack bag to an external frame pack. It is an aluminum (at least in the outdoor industry) solid pin which has a small hole one on end and a head on teh other. Through the hole goes a key ring type thing (or a cotter pin).

here is a picture of them.

spencer
 
i own 4 different brands of snowshoes (MSR included) and find the MSRs best in the spring when you dont know what you will be up against, they are the ones that pack the flattest for carrying on your back and are decent on snow, slush & ice - great to have with you in may when there are snakes crawling around in the lowlands and 4' of snow up top... but too short for real winter and with the optional "floatation tails" installed they do a "nose dive", you can put your foot back a little further but it is still not back far enough to stop the "nose dive" completely and your foot doesn't really work good with the shoe when you move it back - too bad they don't come up with a way to move the binding & pivot point back while using the extensions (i'm sorry i wasted the money on those floatation tails/extensions) - - - - - if you dont like spring conditions, stay low till the snow melts and get something good for the winter - for all around winter most serious hikers use 30" (i have the 30" tubbs altitude) - they are still small enough for trail travel and decent for unbroken snow (breaking trail or bushwacking) - i have also 36" tubbs, great for off trail but on trail the "ditch" from everyone else before you is too skinny for anything bigger than 30" - for trail and occasional off trail i like 25" (and i weigh 200 lbs) these are what i use the most (25" tubbs adventure)
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=39155195
i like them much better than the higher priced tubbs for 3 reasons (1) soft decking (quiet while walking). (2) simple bindings (less to go wrong) i have led hikes with people using expensive bindings and all i can say is that it is a goog thing i had ty-wraps (wire ties) with me (3) the binding/crampon is mounted on a strap instead of a pivot (the pivot is nice on shoes 27"+) but with the strap you have some tension on the twist, when you pick up your foot the rear of the shoe will not point into the ground like it does with a pivot on a small shoe, if you are not careful with your MSRs (21") you will dig the rear almost straight down into the snow while descending (this can also happen with 25" shoes if you aren't careful on the downhill, but the "adventure's") strap/pivot keeps the rear of the shoe from drooping down freely) i like and use these so much that i bought another pair (during an end of season sale) just in case anything ever happens to the first pair (and they do have a lifetime warranty) - one pair wont do it all - if you have a limited budget, get a couple pairs of different shoes from e-bay - many times snowshoe buyers find out that snoeshoeing "isn't for them".
 
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One experienced opinion

Long before you start listening to feedback on various makes and brands of snowshoes, you must consider how, and under what conditions, the 'shoes will be used. Open tundra, for example, justifies 6 foot long jobbies since you would be in open terrain. More likely (I'll presume) you will be northeast, wooded areas. Therefore much shorter 'shoes would be in order. Consider your WEIGHT AND THE WEIGHT OF YOUR PACK when buying any snowshoes.

My strongest feeling -- without a doubt -- is to NOT get suckered in by all the marketing trash favoring aluminum/plastic 'shoes. They don't even mention wood/neoprene (or the older wood/rawhide) 'shoes.

I have used each type and have bought two pair -- both of wood/neoprene. One is a beavertail type and the other is a Green Mt type. I won't use any other 'shoes.

A key benefit is that the open weave of the 'shoe lets the the snow fall through the openings. When snow stays on top of the "deck", you wind up having to heft a lot more weight around. Would you want to add 5-10 pounds weights to your summer hiking boots?

This is just some food for thought... It's very much a personal preference and is really up to the wearer.

Regardless -- (as my mother advised me when departing on my honeymoon) enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!

PS: I did, I did, I did.
Sid Yamel said:
What does everyone recommend for snowshoes for winter hiking?
 
I have 4 pairs of snowshoes that I have used over the years. I only use 2 pairs of them regularly now, Northern Lite 25 inchers and a pair of Redfeather 30 inch Backcountry shoes. They both have their place in the scheme of things. If I am going out on broken trails, shallow snow, or trail running, the NL’s can’t be beat. They weigh 32 oz’s per pair and are lighter than a pair of sneakers. After 8 hours of hiking your legs are noticeably fresher. They do have aluminum crampons and care does need to be taken when grinding them over rocks. I touch them up with a file. One amazing thing about the NL’s is that the company’s racing shoe is also a good all round snowshoe and has the same excellent guarantee (ever see other company’s racing shoes?) For high performance winter sports the NL is very hard to beat.

For serious backpacking and trail breaking I use the Redfeathers. They have a rachet binding that is glove/mitten friendly and have pretty good flotation and traction. I think the binding is made more for a plastic boot because of its strength. The crampons on these is also aluminum and I have had very good luck with them because of their thickness. I like the way the bindings pivot on both pairs of these shoes so that the crampons can be effectively used both ascending and descending by carefully setting them with each step. It’s amazing how well you can go on the steeps with snowshoes with a little technique. I have broken my Redfeathers a few times over the years but I really use(misuse) them by bushwacking, backpacking and hiking when conditions are springlike. They have always got me back and been repaired by customer service.
 
Regarding clevis pins, here's the response I got from ESR:
Who knows, maybe this info will make a difference for somebody.


Hi Neil!

Thanks for writing. The clevis pin and split ring provide the
connection point between the snowshoe and the binding. It is
essentially the part that keeps the binding attached to the platform.
Honestly, those parts almost never break, you would be better off
carrying an extra strap or two should those break, but in my two years
of working here I don't think I have ever heard of the clevis pin
breaking.
But none the less, you can pick up another set just in case.
You can purchase one from a shop called the Summit Hut in Arizona. You
can reach them by calling
1-800-499-8696. The item number for that part is: 469056.
I hope that this helps. If you have any other questions or
concerns please let me know!

Cheers,
Samantha
 
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