Winterizing you canister stove

[Jkrew81]

Was planning on doing a quick trip over the Bonds this weekend and end up around 13 Falls then hike back out. Looking at the weather, it seems I may be packing the yak trax and gaiters.

My dilemma is that I was set on taking my canister stove instead of pulling the liquid one out of the mothballs. As we all know, canister stoves do not work well in colder temps, but I read an interesting article the other day about how some high altitude climbers extend their range into the winter. Apparently they take a copper wire and lace it in a loop through the burner and under the canister thus transferring heat to the canister. While I did read you have to be very careful with this, but has anyone here ever done anything of this nature?

I may be missing something here, but isn’t it bad to heat up compressed fuel.

 

[percious]

I think you are only heating up the fuel enough to keep it in gaseous form. People have also recommended keeping the fuel container in your sleeping bag, or putting it inside your coat on the descent. I know at least one person that increases the effeciency of the stove by boiling a tin of water inefficiently at first, and then placing this tin under the fuel while he cooks everything else. So, there are a lot of trix to get the gas fuel canisters to work in the cold.

-percious

 

[Doc McPeak]

I know at least one person that increases the effeciency of the stove by boiling a tin of water inefficiently at first, and then placing this tin under the fuel while he cooks everything else. So, there are a lot of trix to get the gas fuel canisters to work in the cold.
-percious

I have used this technique to temps down to 25F. Start with the cannister in the bag, or under your jacket if hiking. Then heat a small bit of water, grinning and baring holding the cannister in your hands (the flame jumps when your body heat wraps around the cannister...hint#2). We brought a pair of those Glad re-usable storage containers (I believe the pint size) that perfectly fit around an 8 oz. cannister. You can slice an "X" in the lid to pop the threaded part of the cannister through, put the lid back over the hot water filled container, and we insulated the whole unit by doubling the storage containers on the bottom. This worked great! And adds barely an ounce of extra weight.

Hint: We checked the working temp. range for the cannister and heated the water to where it was hot to the touch but not boiling. Boiling water may be too hot to use.

Another Hint: If the wind is blowing, or the air is colder than freezing and there is snow (if available), submerge and surround the unit in snow to further insulate the unit and it will last through your cooking.

And the disclaimer: This worked for us, but could cause serious injury, death or dismemberment, or ignite terrain altering infernos which could lead to long prison sentences, so use extreme caution and always consult your doctor, lawyer, and congressman before proceeding on any unlicensed equipment alterations.

 

[MadRiver]

Last January I stayed at Crag Camp and used my canister stove. Prior to the trip, I wrapped the canister in insulating tape and kept the fuel in my sleeping bag on the way up. It worked well enough to cook dinner and melt snow for water. At night, I put the canister in my sleeping bag to stay warm for the morning breakfast. I did find if you start out with a full canister it works better.

 

[KayakDan]

You can carry a thermos of hot water with you,to jump start the stove.Put the cannister into a pot(or Glad re-usable container).Add hot water.Cook.
You can also just carry a cannister inside your jacket. Put the cannister on a small foam mouse pad to insulate the bottom. A folding windscreen will also drive the heat down toward the cannister,when wrapped all the way around.
HOWEVER-you must be VERY careful not to let the cannister get overheated this way.
Keep in mind that a full cannister will operate easier than a partial one,as the fuels seperate somewhat,and the easier burning fuel goes first.
The older style Primus containers fit a Nalgene coozie perfectly-but not the new ones. A handwarmer tossed in with a cannister used to work great.
We camp all through the winter,and I don't own a white fuel stove.

 

[dug]

I've heard of wrapping a piece of copper wire around the cannister. By heating one end of the wire, the heat follows through the wire and warms the cannister.

Never tried it, though.

 

[Remix]

I winterize my cannister stove by throwing it into the duffle with the "3 season gear" duct tape label.

But seriously, if copper wire works then strips of copper roof flashing should work better, right?

 

[DougPaul]

how some high altitude climbers extend their range into the winter.

There is a funamental difference between high and low altitude use of canister stoves: at high altitudes the ambient pressure is lower and the canister doesn't need to produce as much vapor pressure. Thus, all else being equal, they can be used to lower temps at altutude.

Evaporating the liquid inside the canister consumes energy and thus cools the contents. If the canister were perfectly insulated, the stove would run until the contents of canister cool down to the point at which the vapor pressure equals the ambient pressure and then the stove stops operating. (Even in summer.) The goal is to supply enough heat from the flame or the environment to keep the temp of the liquid in the canister within a range: above that necessary to produce enough pressure and below that at which the canister explodes. Perhaps a canister temp gage or pressure gage should be used if one adds external heat or augments the flow of flame heat to the canister. (I don't know of any--just seems like a good idea.) BTW, this also applies to self-pressurizing (non-pumping) gasoline stoves.

Doug

 

[Chip]

And the disclaimer: This worked for us, but could cause serious injury, death or dismemberment, or ignite terrain altering infernos which could lead to long prison sentences, so use extreme caution and always consult your doctor, lawyer, and congressman before proceeding on any unlicensed equipment alterations.

Funny stuff

I think the chemical handwarmer idea would work well.
I've always used white gas, but even they can fail or run out, which is why I tend to pack MRE's vs dehydrated.
MRE's require no water and can be eaten cold if required.

 

[Guinness]

One many occasions, I have used a modified version of the "copper wire" method. I took solid core 10 ga. wire and stripped away the insulation leaving only the core. Use enough wire to wrap around the fuel cylinder at leat 8 times, plus a loop over and through the flame area.

Then I used took some reflectix insulation and with duck tape formed a wrap for the cylinder. The shape is more like a oversized cup with a bottom and wall.

When using, wrap the wire starting on the fuel cylinder, passing it through the flame area, once or even twice on colder days. Then place the combined cylinder and wire into the insulation. I used it down to 0°f with some degregation in performance, but still sufficient to boil water.

One caution, because the insulation wraps the cylinder on the side and bottom, it is not as stable when using and care should be taken.

 

[MadRiver]

If you have a choice between a large canister and a small canister (both being full) in the winter, which would you prefer? Does volume matter in the cold?

 

[Guinness]

I have used 4, 8 and 16 ounce canisters. I found the 8 ounce my first choice when going. Mostly because it easily handles a single weekend. I always take a fresh fuel canister, which means I have many partials in my locker.

 

[swamp]

I read an interesting article the other day about how some high altitude climbers extend their range into the winter. Apparently they take a copper wire and lace it in a loop through the burner and under the canister thus transferring heat to the canister. While I did read you have to be very careful with this, but has anyone here ever done anything of this nature?

I may be missing something here, but isn’t it bad to heat up compressed fuel.

This technique is covered in the most recent edition of The Complete Walker by Colin Fletcher.
p.312 " if you build a similar device (which, understand, I don't urge you to do) you can blow yourself up in any of several ways."
This warning follows the instructions for a heater which uses brass rods to transfer heat from the flame to the cartridge.

 

[WCTDave]

While there is no chance of heating the canister up to a temperature sufficient to ignite the gas inside, it would be possible to heat up the gas to a high enough pressure to cause the canister to fail under pressure...though i imagine this would have to be several hundred degrees F. I think as long as the canister is cool enough to touch you're fine. I personally like the warm water idea the best though.

 

[KayakDan]

We carry the smaller size Primus cannisters for backpacking,and the larger size for kayak trips. I always start a backpacking trip with a full cannister for cooking,and use the partial cannisters for the lantern. If it's really cold,an extra full cannister in the pack-just in case.
We always carry enough for an unexpected extra night out.

 

[giggy]

I do the ole keep the cannister warm trick and that works pretty decent unless it is like -20 or something.

I am pretty sure I saw recently in ems or rei - winter versions of connister fuels - it was a 50/50 mix or somehting - sorry don't know much on this topic so i may have it wrong.

I screwed up (forgot) and left my cannister out all night last friday at hermit lake - and it was about 20 - maybe colder. Stove fired right up in the morning to my surprsie without any warming.