Canon P&S operating temperature?

vftt.org

Help Support vftt.org:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
gram

gram

Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2006
Messages
181
Reaction score
12
Location
North of Boston, Avatar, Rocky Mt NP
Looking to replace my Kodak with a Canon compact P&S under $250. But in reviewing the specs on the Canon A2000 IS and the SX110 IS I see -

"Operating temperature 32-104 degrees" Hmmmm - winter hiking?

Batteries are the same for both - 2 AA alkaline or rechargeable AA NiMH.

My current Kodak has a rechargeable NiMH that I always take out for outside in winter, and I use a CRV3 Lithium. I rarely have had a problem with the cold using the lithium, although we're not usually out when it's below zero.

What have your experiences been with Canons on winter hikes? Thanks in advance!
 
I never had a problem with my G3 when I had it in winter. It was kept in a case and then returned after use for the most part or kept inside my winter shell. The LCD gets a little "slow" I guess due to the viscosity or so of the liquid at the cool temps but never had a problem with it. The G3 has a lithium-ion powerpack anyway but you could use Li-ION AA's too..

Jay
 
My A570 (and its predecessor, the A70) would get some straggler white pixels when very cold, i.e., after having it out for several minutes. I have kept it in a jacket pocket in the winter, where it was warmer than the outdoor temperature but not at body temperature so as to avoid condensation. The A570 works much better in the cold, FWIW. I also switch to Lion batteries in winter.

Tim
 
Varied. My original s100 was good for maybe four shots, then I'd change batteries (kept one by my skin) and get four or five more. My (no longer so) new A620 does fine (though I don't think it's ever seen subzero [Fahrenheit] weather).
 
I've used my SD800 and previously my SD300 primarily as backcountry skiing cameras; no real problems down to -20F. Just be careful going from really cold into warm and moist environments.
 
gram said:
"Operating temperature 32-104 degrees" Hmmmm - winter hiking?
Click to expand...
I believe the low temp limit is set by the fear of icing inside the camera. (The Canon P&Ses are not sealed and moisture can get inside and freeze.) Olympus sells a waterproof P&S that is rated down to 14F. Many people are able to use their digital cameras to around 0F or so by being careful. If it gets really cold, the LCD display can freeze and crack. (Different LCDs have different temp ratings: my GPS is rated down to 5F.)

In winter, your body is the most likely source of moisture. Either keep the camera cold the entire time (ie in your pack) and away from your moisture or put the camera in a sealed plastic bag whenever you put it under clothing (to keep it warm). (Moisture will condense in/on a cold camera when you bring it inside, too.) Also try not to exhale on the cold camera.

Batteries are the same for both - 2 AA alkaline or rechargeable AA NiMH.
Click to expand...
Both types will operate below 32F. At low temps, lithium primary batteries are best, then NiMH/NiCad/Lion rechargables, and finally alkalines. (Zinc-carbon dry-cells are terrible in the cold.)

There is more info on batteries at http://www.batteryuniversity.com/index.htm.

One trick to improve the cold performance of batteries is to use several sets so you can warm a set in your pocket and swap it into the camera just before taking a picture. (It would be a good idea to put the batteries in a plastic bag before putting them in your pocket to keep them dry.) A bettery is not dead until it is warm and dead. (The cold does not reduce the amount of energy stored in a battery, it just temporarily reduces the rate at which it can be withdrawn.)

My current Kodak has a rechargeable NiMH that I always take out for outside in winter, and I use a CRV3 Lithium. I rarely have had a problem with the cold using the lithium, although we're not usually out when it's below zero.
Click to expand...
It looks like CRV3 batteries are available in both Lithium primary (non-rechargable) and Lion (rechargable) technologies. My comments on battery technology vs cold are above.

What have your experiences been with Canons on winter hikes? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
I have had no problems, but I haven't pushed the low temp limits very far.

There are a number of previous threads with good info on using digital cameras at low temps. Search and ye shall find.

Doug
 
A request: please specify what type of battery you are using--low temp performance varies significantly depending on the battery type.

* Best: Lithium primary (non-rechargeable)
* Medium: NiMH, NiCad, Lion (all rechargable)
* Low medium: alkaline (non-rechargeable)
* Poor: Carbon-zinc. (dry cell, non-rechargable)

Lots more info on batteries at http://www.batteryuniversity.com/index.htm.


There was a nice tutorial on cold weather photography at http://www.joeharrigan.com/tutorial.htm but it seems to be gone now. I was able to find copies in Google's archive: http://74.125.45.104/search?q=cache...:www.joeharrigan.com&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&gl=us
and at the internet archive: http://web.archive.org/web/20070901185914/http://www.joeharrigan.com/tutorial.htm

Doug
 
DougPaul hit it right on the head - these little cameras (even the $500 G9, etc.) are not waterproof, or even water resistant. However, I routinely carry my Canon Powershot 720IS in a plastic bag in my pocket while I hike (it doesn't matter if the bag is sealed or just folded over) and have no problem at all in the winter. The camera even works in the morning after a night laying out in a sub-zero lean-to. Just keep it dry! To illustrate the point that cold itself won't hurt the camera - Last year, in mid-November, I accidentally left my older Canon Powershot camera sitting on a table in front of the Hungry Bay lean-to on Middle Saranac Lake :eek:. It was in a waterproof case, but the case was not completely closed because I had left a little tripod attached to it. After the camera laid there outside for 3 months, I returned in February, and walked 2 miles over the ice to retrieve the camera (w/case, big carabiner, and 1GB SD card). I brushed a foot of snow off the top of the case, picked up the camera and pressed the power button.... it worked! I did have a problem with the LCD panel due to moisture, but everything else still works today. Keep it dry and you'll be all right. :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
ALGonquin Bob said:
The camera even works in the morning after a night laying out in a sub-zero lean-to. Just keep it dry! To illustrate the point that cold itself won't hurt the camera - Last year, in mid-November, I accidentally left my older Canon Powershot camera sitting on a table in front of the Hungry Bay lean-to on Middle Saranac Lake :eek:. It was in a waterproof case, but the case was not completely closed because I had left a little tripod attached to it. After the camera laid there outside for 3 months, I returned in February, and walked 2 miles over the ice to retrieve the camera (w/case, big carabiner, and 1GB SD card). I brushed a foot of snow off the top of the case, picked up the camera and pressed the power button.... it worked! I did have a problem with the LCD panel due to moisture, but everything else still works today. Keep it dry and you'll be all right. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Nice data points. I would like to note that these are storage temp range data. Many electronic parts have a narrower operating temp range than storage temp range. And, of course, it is possible that the there was ice in the camera for part of the time, but it evaporated by the time you picked it up and tested it.


BTW, 32F is the bottom specified lower temp limit on all of the Canon digital cameras that I have checked. Perhaps on all of them.

Doug
 
32F is likely listed because the lubricants (if any) will prevent any of the moving parts from.... moving, if frozen.
 
The lubricants won't freeze at 32 F - they're not water based. It's more likely related to water getting in the camera and freezing things up. You can't really avoid condensation unless the camera is sealed, and none of these are.

Having said that, I've operated my Canon P&S down to -20 and had no significant problems.
 
dougpaul said:
put the camera in a sealed plastic bag whenever you put it under clothing (to keep it warm). (Moisture will condense in/on a cold camera when you bring it inside, too.)
Click to expand...

Definitely pay close attention here. If you're going to keep that camera in an inside pocket when you're out on the hike, your hot, sweating body is going to soak it with moisture that will freeze as soon as you take the camera out. Use a zip-loc bag.

When you come inside, do not pull the camera out! That's another sure way to get condensation everywhere, including the dreaded *inside* of the camera. Keep the camera in its case or, preferably, again in a sealed zip-loc. That way the camera has its own little pocket of cold, dry air. Even as that air warms up, there's no moisture in it to condense on the cold camera. After a suitable amount of time, the camera itself will have warmed up enough that you can take it out of the bag and it won't cause condensation, even in the über-humid air of a people-packed room.
 
Lubricants might not freeze at 32F, but they certainly will get sluggish if exposed to temps around zero F, resulting in stiff zooming or sticky buttons. The result is the same as if they froze - a camera that needs thawing. I am surprised at how sensitive my 720IS is to just a little bit of moisture. It's fine in my pocket all day in a zip lock bag, but when I go out kayaking and take it out of my waterproof Pelican case, the little bit of moisture on my hands gets onto and into the LCD panel, and within a few hours, the LCD stops working until I let it dry out for a while. I have tried one of those soft plastic bag cases with the hard plate front, but the zoom doesn't work well inside (too constricted) and there is a noticeable quality loss from the plastic case. So I take my chances with the damp LCD. I'd buy the expensive Canon waterproof housing, but then I'd be stuck with an unusable case when Canon changes the camera design. I have found that, practically speaking, if you use your compact Digital camera much, they're good for only a couple years before something happens. It's rarely economical to pay for service, so they become disposable. That is a bit of a disappointment, considering 35mm compacts were good for 5 years or so, and were still economical to repair when they did fail. Ah, the marvels of modern technology.... :p
 
ALGonquin Bob said:
Lubricants might not freeze at 32F, but they certainly will get sluggish if exposed to temps around zero F, resulting in stiff zooming or sticky buttons.
Click to expand...
Liquid lubricants generally get more viscous at lower temps, but solid lubricants may not. I don't know what types are used in modern digital cameras.

It used to be possible to get mechanical film SLRs winterized (lubricants changed to low-temp versions). Don't know if one can get this done for a modern DSLR. (I suspect that even if one can get it done for a DSLR, such a service is unlikely to be available for P&Ses.)

Doug
 
great info

Thanks, everyone for all the good info. Another question -

The 2 Canons I'm looking at say they take 2 AA Alkaline or AA rechargeable NiMH.

Can I use AA lithiums in the camera? What about a CRV3 lithium?

Since I've had excellent luck with the CRV3 lithium camera battery in winter, I'd love to be able to use that again.

DougPaul - I know you have this answer! Thanks in advance.
 
I'm not sure about the CRV3 either, and the cost of that is often similar to buying 2 AA Lithium batteries anyway. I highly recommend the use of AA Lithium batteries in any digital camera that accepts AA size batteries. The performance of Lithium vs Alkaline is significantly better (don't even THINK of usng "Heavy-Duty" batteries!). Lithiums are longer lasting - meaning less battery changes (less waste), and you might not have to carry spare batteries (put fresh batteries in the camera before each hike, if you want to save weight), or if you do, carry only one set of spares when you're out on a hike. This is especially useful in Winter, because Lithiums are not affected by cold temps as much as other battery types. If you use rechargeable AA NiMH batteries, you will save weight and money, in the long run, but will likely have to change batteries more often. I use Lithium.
 
Digital cameras consume high currents for short periods of time--NiMH and Lithium* cells are good at this, alkalines are fair, and carbon-zinc/"Heavy duty" cells are terrible.

* Lion (Lithium ion, rechargable) cells are not available in the AA form factor, so I am excluding them from this post. They also produce 3.3V and can only be used to replace pairs of AA cells.

Most devices that take AA batts will run on alkaline, NiMH and Lithium cells. For digital cameras, alkalines will work in an emergency, but you won't get very many shots. I suggest that you use NiMH or Lithium. (NiCads are similar to NiMH as far as this discussion is concerned.)

Check the camera manuals for the manufacturer's recommendation. When fresh, alkalines produce 1.5V, NiMH: 1.3V, and Lithiums 1.5-1.8V. Most devices work well on NiMH, but a few are sensitive the the higher initial voltage of the Lithiums. (The high initial voltage of 1.8V may last only a few minutes after which it tapers to 1.5V.)

FWIW: my A75 manual lists alkaline, NiMH, and NiCad. I have used Lithium cells without difficulty although a friend has reported that her A75 gets hot if run for extended periods. (So I don't leave the camera on any longer than is necessary.)

I usually use NiMH in my A75 and less often Lithium (to save weight or in the cold).

Doug
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

bikehikeskifish
Unexplained low battery in Canon A570 IS?
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
DougPaul
DougPaul
DougPaul
60CSx battery lifetimes
Replies
9
Views
8K
Kevin Rooney
Kevin Rooney

Latest posts

Top